Survival chances? - Agonis Flexuosa Nana

[soda]

Collected this Dwarf Willow Myrtle today from a building site in Melbourne. I dug about 70% and at the point of giving up, sought advice from my 4WD. Without rope I fould a small section of chain wire fence on the ground (pic2), wrapped it round the base and hooked onto a root and tow ball. Out she came. I had cut through about four, 1-2 inch roots and there were probably 2 others that came out in 'drive'.

I saw Pups advice to limit cutting back this WA spec. to green, so this maybe the downfall. There is some green but not much.

Has had a good drink and will get it into some seasol tonight.

The original nursery tag was still in play. This is by far the biggest and potentially best material attempt I have made in my collecting trys (all of which have sadly gone to God).

[Pup]

Patience and moisture, this is one tree I did some unfortunate learning on. I say unfortunate as it did not survive, have not seen another that is worth the trouble, like this one.
I like you Soda would like this to survive, and develop.

Thanks for showing and good luck.

Cheers Pup

[soda]

Thanks Pup.

Shady spot or does it still need sun time during the healing process?

Paste all the cuts I assume? any others tips.

Seemed to be really bulbous at the base and below almost like a lignotuber. Would this species have this trait?

[Ash]

General collection advice- remove as much leaf area as you have removed root area, seal the cuts! keep the plant moist, use rooting hormone, shade initially then bring it into more and more light as it begins to shoot, keep it humid, treat with fungicide and keep it long after you initially thought it was dead.
When it shoots just grow it grow it grow it and dont worry about the style. You need to replace as much vascular tissue as possible and build a root system.
Too many people race from ground to bonsai pot and do not allow the plant to grow properly.
Looks like very worthwhile material. I hope you got some good roots and cut the big ones clean.
regards
Ash

[soda]

Thanks Ash. If Pup had trouble, I'm not liking my chances.

Some pretty big roots were cut, but there was some smaller stuff closer in and a servicable amount of soil around the mass, but not heaps given the trouble getting it out, and it was a loose sandier mix.

Rooting hormone just into the watering mix? or expose roots again and apply to cuts?

Humidity may be the hard one in Melbourne. Would a bag over or something similar work? I have a shady spot with lots of that creeping weed that dogs hate, so that area might be a bit more humid.

[Ash]

You can water rooting hormone through the mix. Some people rate them as bogus but I used IAA and NAA present in a Maxicrop liquid product that can be purchased commonly at hardware stores and nurseries. I would not disturb it again now to do anything to the roots.

Spray it a couple of times a day with water with a small amount of fungicide and rooting hormone in it if you can. If you bag it you can get sweaty rots. I wouln't bag a dry climate plant like this.

good luck
Ash

[Pup]

Good advice given there Soda, mine was when I had little experience, and take it today cos it wont be there tomorrah. So with the advice received I would rate your chances as high.

Cheers Pup

[soda]

95 Day Update - Success!







Was very slow at first, tiny buds formed and most just sat there. When some started to form green leaves I increased the sunlight. The last few weeks it has really taken off in parts, others still slow. The leaves have also taken on the burgundy edge with the sun.

Prety much followed the advice by Ash and Pup to the 't' so big props and thank you . (Took a while to buy fungicide and have only applied recently once). Twice daily misting did raise some eyebrows from the better half.

If it continues to grow strong, I may consider taking to a workshop for suggestions (size, branches and future pot). Whilst I will probably head down the clump/broom/willow style, there is one side left longer that does ask some questions or at least pose a second option. The nebari/buttress really looks promising and strong.

This longer side, has 2 interwoven branches, which are the largest two brances. It would be great to bend them apart but it would seem they may be too advanced?

Any tips/virts or questions more than welcomed.

[Ash]

Hey that is good news Soda- but don't race to train it. Grow it like mad to keep it healthy. If it does not get a chance to grow new tissue now it could still succumb to rot down the track so resist the temptation to pinch and wire until good growth grows and hardens off. Good multibranched and stocky material like this is well worth the longer wait.
cheers
Ash

[Pup]

Patience is a virtue, so slowly slowly as Ash has said, the first flush of growth, is not always a sign that it has recovered, like cuttings the second bud is the one that says it is alive and thriving.

I see a very nice curved movement in the second picture with the little helper.
These tree's have a natural twist in the main stem as they get older. There is a suburb of Perth called Peppermint Grove, where the Millionaires live. Most of the trees in the street plantings are Agonis flexuosa, they have fantastically twisted trunk much like the Pomegranates you see in the books.

I will follow the progress of this one, with the same hope as you Soda.

Thank you for sharing Pup

[Bretts]

I missed this one when you first collected Soda and it is great to see it is recovering. As Ash states don't rush. As a guide I would say consider 1 year from now at the earliest that you do anything unless the growth gets out of hand and it starts to over run your stock area a little trim would be OK. Maybe even two or three years. You will find that a tree that is taken slower actually progresses faster.
Some species will not need this much recovery but this is one species that I would not upset too much. I would love to have one of these but they don't hadle the cold very well I found.
Edit: haven't read Pup's post

[soda]

I missed this one when you first collected Soda and it is great to see it is recovering. As Ash states don't rush. As a guide I would say consider 1 year from now at the earliest that you do anything unless the growth gets out of hand and it starts to over run your stock area a little trim would be OK. Maybe even two or three years. You will find that a tree that is taken slower actually progresses faster.
Some species will not need this much recovery but this is one species that I would not upset too much. I would love to have one of these but they don't hadle the cold very well I found.Edit: haven't read Pup's post

Thnks Bretts, Pup and Ash. I hadn't heard about the cold issue. I never get a freeze so I should be ok yes?

Amazing for a species I knew nothing about, after collecting and becoming familiar I now see them everywhere in Melbourne. Bonsai really does educate. My Golf club has them virtually lining a few holes.

[Ash]

My Golf club has them virtually lining a few holes.

If there are trees lining the holes that must make it very hard to hit the ball in

[soda]

My Golf club has them virtually lining a few holes.

If there are trees lining the holes that must make it very hard to hit the ball in

Actually quite the opposite, I'm sure you know what I mean. Good cutting opportunities to be had!

[soda]

I see a very nice curved movement in the second picture with the little helper.
Thank you for sharing Pup

Pup do you mean the curved 'trunk' on the right of picture eminating out of the pot centre? Do you see an option to highlight this? Curious as it's one I hadn't seen/considered.

And yes one of my two little helpers trying to get in the shot.