Wiring set time

[Mickeyjaytee]

Hey all,

I wired up some linarifolias, lanceolatas and incanas just the other day and was wondering how long does it generally take to ‘set’ into place? I’m completely new so I’m unsure and, I will most likely have a lot of questions further down the track

I did do some pruning also which perhaps I shouldn’t have. After having a look around at Australian native bonsais I see the Japanese style doesn’t really apply

Any help on these three species would be awesome!

Thank you!

[shibui]

Set time for wired branches depends on lots of factors - species, time of year, age of the branch, how well you look after the plant, weather, etc. so there's no set timeframe. Young, tender shoots set in just a few weeks but older branches might need a few months. Some species can take a few years to set in place.
I generally watch the branches for signs. If I see the wires digging into the bark anywhere along the branch I take it all off. By that time the branches are usually set anyway.

You still need to prune native bonsai. You can choose to try for traditional shapes or try to develop some more Aussie shaped trees. All up to you. First pruning does not stop you changing style later on. Many older bonsai have had changes in shape and style over the life of the tree, sometimes radical changes so no need to worry about first tries.

[Mickeyjaytee]

Set time for wired branches depends on lots of factors - species, time of year, age of the branch, how well you look after the plant, weather, etc. so there's no set timeframe. Young, tender shoots set in just a few weeks but older branches might need a few months. Some species can take a few years to set in place.
I generally watch the branches for signs. If I see the wires digging into the bark anywhere along the branch I take it all off. By that time the branches are usually set anyway.

You still need to prune native bonsai. You can choose to try for traditional shapes or try to develop some more Aussie shaped trees. All up to you. First pruning does not stop you changing style later on. Many older bonsai have had changes in shape and style over the life of the tree, sometimes radical changes so no need to worry about first tries.

Thanks Shibui, I appreciate the quick reply! Most of them are quite young where I’ve put bends into the trunks as to they were all super straight, I’d say probably 1cm or so.

I’ll keep an eye out for the wire bite! I completely forgot about that.

Glad I can keep it growing and correct my pruning mistakes. These Mel’s are pretty damn hardy.

I do have another question now I think about it. On young branches where the leaves alternate going along the branch, do melaleucas, specifically the ones I listed, have those dormant buds where if I chop the end of the branch off it will hopefully sprout more than one for branch ramification? I hope that makes sense!

My trees are a little bare and lanky thanks to me having them mainly in shade but, I’ve taken them out into full sun, repotted and placed them in water trays so am hoping for more branches to grow out.

Thanks!

[shibui]

All trees have dormant buds at the base of each leaf stem. All trees can activate new buds when cut back to healthy leaves.
Some trees can also grow new buds from older nodes where leaves have gone but some don't seem to be able to do that. For safety I prune back to live leaves when I want new shoots. Often I get new shoots from leaves and from bare wood below which is a clue that they can be chopped hard and still shoot.
In desperation I will cut into older wood and cross fingers to see what happens.

Some mels - I think linariifolia and lanceolata are among them - can bud on older, bare wood. Not sure about incana.
Many of the dry country mels I have tried don't seem to have that capability and just die back when pruned too hard.

[Mickeyjaytee]

All trees have dormant buds at the base of each leaf stem. All trees can activate new buds when cut back to healthy leaves.
Some trees can also grow new buds from older nodes where leaves have gone but some don't seem to be able to do that. For safety I prune back to live leaves when I want new shoots. Often I get new shoots from leaves and from bare wood below which is a clue that they can be chopped hard and still shoot.
In desperation I will cut into older wood and cross fingers to see what happens.

Some mels - I think linariifolia and lanceolata are among them - can bud on older, bare wood. Not sure about incana.
Many of the dry country mels I have tried don't seem to have that capability and just die back when pruned too hard.

Thanks so much Shibui, you’re so knowledgeable and I greatly appreciate your help! Interesting about the dry country Mel’s and thanks for pointing that out.

Fingers crossed over time I can get some nice ramification.

Cheers