Japanese Maple air layering

[Fengz]

I have recently acquired a new JM and have a query around the air layering process, I will be applying Dennis Vojtilla’s technique of grow 4-5 nodes cut back to 1 and was pondering to myself if I would be best to actually leave the pruning method until after the air layer being that less buds will require less water mobility from the plant leading to less flowem activity and resulting in less xylem returning starches etc to the roots (in this example buildup creating the new roots)? Does this make sense? Would it greatly impact the air layer process or am I overthinking it?

Any help would be appreciated.

[Fengz]

Image of the maple

[Ryceman3]

I have recently acquired a new JM and have a query around the air layering process, I will be applying Dennis Vojtilla’s technique of grow 4-5 nodes cut back to 1 and was pondering to myself if I would be best to actually leave the pruning method until after the air layer being that less buds will require less water mobility from the plant leading to less flowem activity and resulting in less xylem returning starches etc to the roots (in this example buildup creating the new roots)? Does this make sense? Would it greatly impact the air layer process or am I overthinking it?

Any help would be appreciated.

Wow, you've put a lot of thought into this!
Here's my thinking (and I have created a few maple layers, both trident and Japanese)... assuming you prep well and apply good technique when applying the layer :
The more green you leave above your layer site the more root growth you will get (quickly) and the more likely therefore that you will have a succesful layer. Why? The more growth above the layer, the more food (glucose - whatever you wanna call it) that is available to the tree to create the new roots you seek. In short - whatever you are happy to leave above the layer site in the way of foliage ... you should.

EDIT : I'm also assuming you plan to set the layer in Spring after the first flush of growth has hardened?

[longd_au]

I agree with Ryceman.
I used to air layer in Spring and then wonder if summer is a good time to detach and will it have enough roots to sustain growth through the hot summer. I think the right after care is essential.

This year, I did my air layering in late summer. I got good roots by the end of Autumn. The best thing is, I can detach the air layer while the plant is dormant. That is the theory.
But I am faced with another potential issue, will detaching in winter cause extensive bleeding?

I am not sure..but I usually detach air layers in winter whether they were taken in spring or not without issues.

The journey is full of experiments.

[Chezza]

I completed 12 Japanese Maple air layers this year in early summer....all successful and massive root growth in 6 weeks!! I have found that waiting to very late spring/early summer is best and also placing the parent plant in close to full sun while layering processes is taking place. The more sun/heat the quicker the root growth for me it seems,but im no expert!!

I also cut the layers off and placed into plastic pots in mid to late summer and had roots popping out the bottom after two weeks in the pots. Obviously going dormant now but all still very healthy future bonsai, i cant wait to spring to pot them in bonsai pots.

Goodluck with the layer, nothing beats peeling back the aluminum foil and seeing all that root growth! Its very addictive!

[Chezza]

Sorry i forgot the main reason for posting in prevous post, dont cut back anything until you are about to detach the layer and put it in a pot, the more leaves at the start the better production of energy that can be forced into root production. After all thats done and you have good root production and are cutting away from the parent plant then i always go by cutting back 80 to 90% of leaves and any unwanted branches at that time.

[shibui]

So there you have it. All great advice to leave lots of growth above layers. Lots of growth = lots of roots quicker.

As to removing layers:
I have had no problems removing and potting layers in summer. Just prune the top back a bit to give the roots a chance. Again, plenty of growth on to will feed good root growth below.
I have had problems leaving rooted layers on the tree too long over summer. After the roots are established the part above the layer becomes reliant on the new roots and they take moisture out of the bag/pot/whatever. That means the new roots soon become dry unless you are able to water often. Dry roots can kill the layer. Much better to remove than to leave once there are good roots

Removing layers in winter should be fine. Sometimes maples do weep a bit after pruning in winter but does not usually compromise the tree. Seems to get worse closer to spring. If you do get excessive bleeding and are worried just root prune and repot the tree. Weeping seems to stop immediately the roots are cut.

[greg27]

I completed 12 Japanese Maple air layers this year in early summer....all successful and massive root growth in 6 weeks!! I have found that waiting to very late spring/early summer is best and also placing the parent plant in close to full sun while layering processes is taking place. The more sun/heat the quicker the root growth for me it seems,but im no expert!!

Interesting, more sun makes sense to me but I wonder why waiting until summer is best. I have a JM that I want to layer in spring; maybe I'll hold off a little longer.

[Fengz]

I completed 12 Japanese Maple air layers this year in early summer....all successful and massive root growth in 6 weeks!! I have found that waiting to very late spring/early summer is best and also placing the parent plant in close to full sun while layering processes is taking place. The more sun/heat the quicker the root growth for me it seems,but im no expert!!

Interesting, more sun makes sense to me but I wonder why waiting until summer is best. I have a JM that I want to layer in spring; maybe I'll hold off a little longer.

If the leaves have hardened off they are then moving from an energy deficit to an energy positive as they would now be cashing in on their investment. This is why leaving it til after the leaves harden off is more beneficial.

[Fengz]

I have recently acquired a new JM and have a query around the air layering process, I will be applying Dennis Vojtilla’s technique of grow 4-5 nodes cut back to 1 and was pondering to myself if I would be best to actually leave the pruning method until after the air layer being that less buds will require less water mobility from the plant leading to less flowem activity and resulting in less xylem returning starches etc to the roots (in this example buildup creating the new roots)? Does this make sense? Would it greatly impact the air layer process or am I overthinking it?

Any help would be appreciated.

Wow, you've put a lot of thought into this!
Here's my thinking (and I have created a few maple layers, both trident and Japanese)... assuming you prep well and apply good technique when applying the layer :
The more green you leave above your layer site the more root growth you will get (quickly) and the more likely therefore that you will have a succesful layer. Why? The more growth above the layer, the more food (glucose - whatever you wanna call it) that is available to the tree to create the new roots you seek. In short - whatever you are happy to leave above the layer site in the way of foliage ... you should.

EDIT : I'm also assuming you plan to set the layer in Spring after the first flush of growth has hardened?

Thanks for the response I will leave the growth this is what felt right was just thinking quite a bit about it haha thanks again

[Fengz]

I completed 12 Japanese Maple air layers this year in early summer....all successful and massive root growth in 6 weeks!! I have found that waiting to very late spring/early summer is best and also placing the parent plant in close to full sun while layering processes is taking place. The more sun/heat the quicker the root growth for me it seems,but im no expert!!

I also cut the layers off and placed into plastic pots in mid to late summer and had roots popping out the bottom after two weeks in the pots. Obviously going dormant now but all still very healthy future bonsai, i cant wait to spring to pot them in bonsai pots.

Goodluck with the layer, nothing beats peeling back the aluminum foil and seeing all that root growth! Its very addictive!

12 successful air layers.!! Very nice I’m hopping to complete 4 this summer, thanks for the information

[Fengz]

So there you have it. All great advice to leave lots of growth above layers. Lots of growth = lots of roots quicker.

As to removing layers:
I have had no problems removing and potting layers in summer. Just prune the top back a bit to give the roots a chance. Again, plenty of growth on to will feed good root growth below.
I have had problems leaving rooted layers on the tree too long over summer. After the roots are established the part above the layer becomes reliant on the new roots and they take moisture out of the bag/pot/whatever. That means the new roots soon become dry unless you are able to water often. Dry roots can kill the layer. Much better to remove than to leave once there are good roots

Removing layers in winter should be fine. Sometimes maples do weep a bit after pruning in winter but does not usually compromise the tree. Seems to get worse closer to spring. If you do get excessive bleeding and are worried just root prune and repot the tree. Weeping seems to stop immediately the roots are cut.

A lot to consider that I wasn’t aware of, thanks Shibui appreciate the information.!!