AusBonsai

Hello here again to ask for help, can you please let me have your opinion on what i did here...
Before:

After:


Did I cut correctly???


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Yep thats OK, After it recovers you can trim back the knob and taper back down from the top node.
I would also ( at the next repot) tilt away from the new leader section.
You could have also cut back to the first branch

We like our trees to have movement out of the ground rather than a straight upright pole ( unless a formal upright or Broom,

There's no problem with what you have done. Crab apple recovers well from pruning.
For others reading this you do need to take some care when cutting fruiting trees really low. Many are propagated by grafting which means the roots stock is different from the top of the tree. If you cut below the graft site you will end up with a tree grown from whatever rootstock they have used rather than the crabapple variety you bought. I cannot see any sign of a graft union on Pureheart's tree so it is probably grown from a cutting so all good with this one

PH, You have been given a bum steer with the above posts. In actual fact it is no good like this. You won't get a nice tree from it. You need to do this:
Then, at the next repot, You will plant it on an angle so as to give the tree it's first (VERY IMPORTANT) curve and good foundation taper. This way it has the potential for excellence. If you leave it, it won't.

Cheers,
Mike

Won't the dieback you get with crab apples take out that new leader branch if you cut it that close?

Agree with Treeman, also one straight cut will heal over better than the two knob cuts you currently have.
Cheers
Kirky

Beano wrote:Won't the dieback you get with crab apples take out that new leader branch if you cut it that close?

You won't get die back in crabs. At least I have never seen it. I should also mention that the other important thing to do here is to let the tree grow for the entire season without cutting again. By Autumn, you should have the new leader at least half as thick as the original trunk. Probably more. (the shoot may reach half a metre in length over the summer. If it's still weak and thin, let it grow for the whole of next year as well) Then you can prune back to 2 buds (at most) and you are on your way. The following spring you select one shoot, usually the top one, as the leader and you may want to put a bit of movement in it when it's about 100mm long or so. If you left 2 buds, you will also have a side shoot to contend with. This will be your first branch. Wire that too if necessary. You clean up or recut the original cut after 2 years and seal it again.
Now if you are wanting to make a shohin type tree, you can also defoliate the shoots after you have wired them but I prefer to let them grow more - say up to 200mm - then cut back to 2 buds again and defoliate. The defoliation will speed up the development of the small tree quite a bit. The last thing you want at this stage is flowers or even worse, fruit. If you let the tree do that, it will often stop growing, so remove all those as soon as you see them.
If you want a larger tree, instead of wiring etc, let the new shoots grow and prune at the end of the season and keep repeating that for as long as it takes.

Thanks Mike I appreciate the honesty!! I will then be cutting further down but now the question is for me to understand how to perform the cut properly...Should I use a knob cutter or use a saw and perform a straight cut and after that should I perform what is described here viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8312 as in picture 3? And if so what tool do I need to purchase? A grafting knife? What do you use?


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No one?:(


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I usually cut just above the branch junction. I don't think the initial cut is so important because there will be lots of subsequent growth that will change things. Cutting a little high is better than going too close. If there is a little die back from damaged cells the shoot you have kept will be protected.
After new growth is established in the desired shoot and new sap pathways are established from roots to tip it is safe to reduce the stump. I then prune the stump back to give a good line to the new bend and the plant can start to grow over the wound.
Best tool to do the final cut is branch cutter. In initial cut can be done with any cutting tool but sharp, clean tools are best for the health of the tree.

treeman wrote:PH, You have been given a bum steer with the above posts. In actual fact it is no good like this. You won't get a nice tree from it. You need to do this:

Hmm thought I covered that with this quote below, but hey! I am not the one with 10 degrees and 50 years horticultural experience! Sheesh!!!

kcpoole wrote:You could have also cut back to the first branch

treeman wrote: Then, at the next repot, You will plant it on an angle so as to give the tree it's first (VERY IMPORTANT) curve and good foundation taper. This way it has the potential for excellence. If you leave it, it won't.

Actually thought i covered this one too!

kcpoole wrote:I would also ( at the next repot) tilt away from the new leader section.

and

kcpoole wrote:We like our trees to have movement out of the ground rather than a straight upright pole

Oh Well

I try not preach to people as to what they should do, but instead I advise them what I would do and leave them to make the decision themselves. That way they have are not treated like naughty children, but made to feel that they can be part of the decision making process.

Ken

shibui wrote:I usually cut just above the branch junction. I don't think the initial cut is so important because there will be lots of subsequent growth that will change things. Cutting a little high is better than going too close. If there is a little die back from damaged cells the shoot you have kept will be protected.
After new growth is established in the desired shoot and new sap pathways are established from roots to tip it is safe to reduce the stump. I then prune the stump back to give a good line to the new bend and the plant can start to grow over the wound.
Best tool to do the final cut is branch cutter. In initial cut can be done with any cutting tool but sharp, clean tools are best for the health of the tree.

Thanks got it!


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