Japanese flowering cherry-advice please

[Bonsaiforest]

Hi ... Have recently picked up a Japanese flowering cherry from Ray Nesci's. It's about 30-35cm tall & about an inch & a 1/4 thick having many new branches to choose from... What to do...? It doesn't really have any taper at all and the leader is no where near to being a sufficient diameter to provide realistic appeal. Nebari isn't developed and at base but has many fine radial roots that would develop over time. Because of the lack of taper in trunk I was wondering if it would be possible to air layer 1/2 way up at the bend and then chop to desired location lower down( opportunity of two in one)

Or can I work with what I've got and let all of the finer branches (on the lower half of tree) grow out then chop back once trunk has thickened. I'm not really keen on scars but have seen a few flowering apricots and cherry trees that have really gnarled/narly trunks and thought this may be a possibility.

Any way enough of my babble... I'd really appreciate if I could have some guidance on my subject & provide me with some direction & possible option for this tree.

Check out the pics below

[Bonsaiforest]

Sorry here are the following images

[Elmar]

Based on the picture, and that you got it from Ray Nesci, I'd say the top left branch pointing straight up IS your new leader...

So, while I don't have a great deal of experience with deciduous trees, I'd say you'd be required to wire the branches into the desired shape (looks like an informal upright to me)... Some branches need to be removed because there are too many. Good news tho, it looks like it's in very good health (prolific growth of branchlets)!

Nice pick-up.


Cheers
Elmar

[Truth]

I was under the impression that the Sakura/Prunus Serrulata wouldn't grow in Sydney due to it not getting anywhere near cold enough. Maybe you should leave it for this year to see how it goes health/vigour-wise in your backyard, and probably find the coldest micro-climate for it. After then you could probably look into styling options.

However In terms of styling, it seems that you've already got some decent trunk thickness. Up to you wether you want to get more taper through the low sacrifice branches already growing there, and make do with the trunk movement you have, or do a hard trunk cut and wire up a new leader for movement. But I wouldn't do any of the above until you're confident that the plant can take it, and push on.

[Daluke]

Have you tried changing the angle of the tree (by elevating a side?)

[Bougy Fan]

I would cut it back to the branch stub on the right in the first photo. As you mentioned it has no taper and you have to get started on it now. There will be many years of growing and chopping to get something suitable out of this material. It is one of the hardest lessons to learn in bonsai

[Bonsaiforest]

Haven't tried looking at different angles yet just really unsure of where to start. So many new branches to choose from and not sure which way to go. Would also really like a thicker trunk to create taper and probably need advice in that area as well.

[shibui]

Try searching for flowering cherry and flowering apricot bonsai. Lots of them have dead wood and hollow trunks so you might be able to solve the taper issue by carving the trunk. Nebari is far less important with these trees so don't worry about the lack of surface roots.
These flowering species are not really easy so good luck.

[Daluke]

Maybe let it grow unhindered. Plenty of water and plenty of feed. I had a few sticks in pots myself recently which I put in the ground. It's a marathon not a race.

I'd be leaving all the branches.

[Bonsaiforest]

Thanks Shibui will define toy look into it...and to Daluke Although I'm not familiar with this variety... Say I was to put it in the ground to let it grow out. Do you think it would put on as much growth as a trident in a season?

[Daluke]

I wouldn't think it would put on as much as a Trident. That being said, I think you should consider ground growing. It's like steroids for trees!

[treeman]

Really important that you don't put flowering Cherries in the same boat as flowering Apricot. They are so completely different and require very different treatment. First point: All the Cherries can be difficult! (compared to most others) They do not like wire, they are easily diseased, they need careful fertilizing (not too much), they don't bud back well. In other words always be gentle when handling them. Wire loosely, repot yearly, (autumn is good), feed well in spring as new growth begins.
They don't grow much over summer so spring feeding is important to produce strong succulent growth which will flower the following spring. Cut back new growth to 2 or 3 leaves when the branches have reached about 7 to 9 leaves. Use a very well drained mix which holds moisture (root rot is common). Seal all winter cuts and cracks!!

Regarding your tree, (first pic) I would use the new lead at the top of the heavy cut as the leader. Cut it back to it's first bud and remove all the other growth around it. At the bottom of the heavy cut find a small branch to keep and remove everything else around it. Use 2 or 3 other well placed branches around the trunk and remove everything else. Wire loosely to the correct angle and cut back to 1 or 2 buds. Don't over style with wiring on this species. Use the scissors mostly.

[Bonsaiforest]

Thanks Treeman... All advice taken on board and will be executed. Should the thicker branch at the bend - half way down the trunk also be removed ? I thought that by leaving this to grow out it would thicken the lower part of the trunk to create more taper from base to top. ( or would it cause a reverse taper that would not be able to be rectified ). If you think this is not necessary for this variety then I'll just go ahead and choose a new small side branch.
Another question would be wiring. Is it best done after repotting in Autumn or in Spring after flowering ? If you could suggest a soil mix (ingredients & ratios ) would be greatly appreciated...! And in regards to sealing cuts/cracks should I use the gooey cut paste ( stuff in the toothpaste like tube ). Or the heavier clay like cut paste ?

A little more guidance needed as even after researching on the net I'm yet to find any information as specific & informative as your own.

Thanks again

[treeman]

Thanks Treeman... All advice taken on board and will be executed. Should the thicker branch at the bend - half way down the trunk also be removed ? I thought that by leaving this to grow out it would thicken the lower part of the trunk to create more taper from base to top. ( or would it cause a reverse taper that would not be able to be rectified ). If you think this is not necessary for this variety then I'll just go ahead and choose a new small side branch.
Another question would be wiring. Is it best done after repotting in Autumn or in Spring after flowering ? If you could suggest a soil mix (ingredients & ratios ) would be greatly appreciated...! And in regards to sealing cuts/cracks should I use the gooey cut paste ( stuff in the toothpaste like tube ). Or the heavier clay like cut paste ?

A little more guidance needed as even after researching on the net I'm yet to find any information as specific & informative as your own.

Thanks again

I highly recommend that you track down a copy of International Bonsai 1998/No 1. It has 8 pages dedicated to flowering cherry bonsai and has all the info you could want.
To answer your questions from my personal point of view, I would remove that thicker branch and work with what you have. I doubt it would do much to thicken the tree and if you use the new leader at the top you will end up with enough taper for a cherry.
If you wire loosely so as to make sure the wire never cuts into the branch and you don't bend severely, you can wire at any time but as I said don't wire to much as they are not strong growers and wiring inhibits the growth quite a lot. You want this species to be as vigorous as possible always.
I won't recommend a mix because everyone has their own preference. As long as it is very well drained but does not dry out severly between waterings should be ok. I add a sprinkle of garden lime to all the rose family at potting time (especially apples) Also don't over-pot. It is far better to use a smaller pot and to water more often that the opposite.
Use anything that you have to seal. I use grafting wax as it is very cheap.
Spray with a lime sulphur solution every winter too as they are highly suseptible to infections in the wood.

Above all, keep in mind that cherries are not the easiest of trees so don't be surprised something goes wrong and the tree dies.

[Pearcy001]

don't be surprised something goes wrong and the tree dies.

The harsh reality of bonsai