Adding Dolomite

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Robsterios
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Adding Dolomite

Post by Robsterios »

G'day all... A question or 2 if I may... Not a lot of detailed information exists around regarding adding dolomite to particular species. I've heard that some people add it to everything, elms, maples, pines, juni's etc. Personally, I like to mix up my fertilizing regime with different brands and not just stick to one...eg, I use Powerfeed, Yates uplift, Seamungus liquid, Nitrosoil etc, usually adding a few drops of Superthrive (yes I've read the debate if whether it's worth it or not..!) The other one I use is floralicious at times. With regards to Dolomite, my understanding of it previously was that it does raise the ph so for species that like a slightly acidic environment, is adding dolomite not detrimental over the long term.? So I'm assuming I would't add a sprinkle to Satsuki's but would most decidious and coniferous species benifit from a sprinkle and how often..?
The other question is around Miracid...well I don't think it exists any more but more so, an acid specific fertizer that adds iron and other elements for acid lovers.. I've also read that species such as Junipers and Pines benefit from an occasional feed. Maybe I'm overdoing the chemistry a tad here but I'm only looking for the best for my beloved bonsai, like we all do..!
thanks for any advice.....cheers, Rob... :hooray:
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Re: Adding Dolomite

Post by Brian »

Figs love dolomite lime and I give my figs a spoon full sprinkled over the soil, then water it in, every month. I don't use it on pines as they like acid soil.
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Re: Adding Dolomite

Post by GavinG »

Junipers and some Acacias like a pinch of lime each year.

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Re: Adding Dolomite

Post by shibui »

Jim Webb (now deceased) always advocated limestone or dolomite for figs. He claimed that it helped with cold tolerance. Like Brian, I have used it regularly and it certainly does not do them any harm. I sprinkle a light dusting (like icing sugar on a sponge cake?) over the soil surface in autumn. Maybe I should use it a little more often if Brian's figs are happy with monthly doses.
With regards to Dolomite, my understanding of it previously was that it does raise the ph so for species that like a slightly acidic environment, is adding dolomite not detrimental over the long term.?
Dolomite does raise the pH but there are many other factors at play - composition of the potting mix; starting pH of the mix; etc. The pH of your mix can also change over time as a result of fertiliser - N ferts tend to acidify soils so in some cases adding a little dolomite could be beneficial. You'd need to do some testing to find out what the current pH of your mix is to decide.
pH of the water you use can affect the acidity of the soil as well but could push pH either up or down. Most towns have treated water which is pH balanced and should not affect your plants but people relying on ground water or untreated dam water can have issues. At my previous property the well water measured pH 4.5 and dissolved the copper hot water tank :palm: I could grow most plants but, strangely, azaleas did not do well there.
Maybe I'm overdoing the chemistry a tad here
Unfortunately when it comes to soil chemistry there are so many interactions it is often not as simple as it may seem.
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Re: Adding Dolomite

Post by Robsterios »

Thanks for your replies...yes, soil ph, and water ph would be a factor for sure... perhaps a simple ph test would be advisable.. I was a bit confused by reading that junipers and hinoki's prefer a slightly acidic soild and then having read that a sprinkle of dolomite was advantageous when it has an alkylising effect...anyone with advice on jbp's and white pines..?
thanks again...Rob..
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Re: Adding Dolomite

Post by Brian »

Dolomite sweetens the soil mix, so a pinch on everything wouldn't hurt as long as its watered in properly to prevent root burn.

I do my figs every 6 weeks or so, but I have a very open soil mix which washes the lime through rapidly.
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Re: Adding Dolomite

Post by Ray M »

Hi Robsterios,
I think Shibui has made some very salient points in his post. I started a trial on Figs last year but unfortunately got slack and didn't follow it through. I will be trialling this again this year. I have been using it on Chinese Elms, Olives and Ligustrum for a number of years. I like Seamungus as a fertilizer and place some pellets on the soil then sprinkle some Dolomite Lime over the soil. I immediately wash that through the soil making sure I wash it off any foliage it may have made contact with. These three species respond very well for me in my environment.

Regards Ray
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Re: Adding Dolomite

Post by treeman »

I'm very close to you so I am using the same water as you. I have found that if I use slow release fertilizers like osmocote without Mg, I invariably end up with a magnesium deficiency. Therfore Ithe water we are using does not seem to have much Mg in it like it did when I was further north. I now use dolomite (not garden lime) on everything except azalea and gardenia at least twice a year and I think even more from now on.
Another option is to use a fert with Mg in it but the high Mg osmocote (for citrus) seems pretty useless at supplying Mg to potted plants. Keep an eye out for Mg deficiencies in the older leaves. If you can keep the old leaves nice and green you are doing ok.
I use dolomite more it's Mg content rather than pH adjustment but again, using osmocote will bring the pH down because of its high urea content so the liming qualities of the dolomite will help with that as well.
When appliying it, do it after watering and water in very lightly so no water drains out of the pot. This way the mix has time to capture the Ca and Mg ions. (unless you are using an all mineral mix without zeolite) Then just resume normal watering the next day. If you use just organic ferts, you might not need to bother with any liming at all.
Clear as mud?
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Re: Adding Dolomite

Post by Brian »

Some of you may be appalled at this, but I have been mixing diluted urine with water in my watering can for fertilising my bonsai the last 3 months and the results are impressive.
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