First Root-Prune on a Casuarina

[lacertilian]

Hi everyone,
I have been growing a Casuarina sp. (possibly even a Allocasuarina torulosa ) for a couple of years now, still in it's original 200mm nursery pot and am at the stage where I want to give it a root-prune and flare out some roots to begin work on the nebari. I have a training pot or 3 ready for use but don't know when to perform this next step.
I have searched on the forum and found people seem to attempt this genus at many times throughout the year, some in Autumn, some in Summer and others in Spring.
When have you found success in regards to the quickest recovery times from an initial root-prune?
The Koreshoff's books recommend Spring or Autumn before the new growth appears...mine always has fresh growth except in winter!
hmmmm....any help appreciated

[GavinG]

Every grower has his/her own way to do stuff, and it can be confusing. There are two main approaches with natives - conservative (treat them like junipers, take about 30% of roots, but leave the root ball mainly undisturbed, change the soil gradually over years) and full-on kamikaze (see anything Antal has posted (wicked cackle)). This is bare rooting, arrange the roots from day one, flood the tree (water 3-4 times daily) afterwards, and see what survives. He has certainly used this techniques with Casuarinas. Conservative treatment is OK Spring and Autumn, but not too late, as they can sulk all through winter. Kamikaze tends to be safest in the warm early summer, - I'm not sure I'd feel confident doing this in the middle of a heat wave.

Either way, be prepared to learn - what works in your backyard, with your mix, and with your aftercare may not work for anyone else. Our experience with natives is not all that extensive. Best of luck.

Gavin

[lacertilian]

Thanks for the help Gavin, as I have not seen the roots yet I think I will wait till Autumn before I rip it out. I was worried about doing anything major during these last few 40+C days. I've also read about people dehydrating/drying out their natives prior to root work to induce some sort of dormancy and reduce the amount of new growth. This sounds a bit sketchy for my skills, I think I am safer doing the heavy soak method you mentioned. I might put up a before & after set of photos if I remember..
Cheers for the advice!

[bonsaibruce]

Greetings from Hot Brisvagas,
There was a talk at Coffs Harbour many trees ago by a respected Lady bonsai master who said " Cut Australian roots under water".
I have tried it a few times and is can be messy, but seems to work.
If you think, the tree will always be trying to lift water to it's leaves, when you cut a root the osmotic pull/lift of the leaves will pull a plug of air into the root.
This air can only get out through a leaf. Australian trees have tough leaves with small pores to stop water loss. The "air plug" will stop any water getting to the leaf.
To me the science says, cut under water.
Too hot to cut in my garden, even with the sea breeze.
Happy bonsai,
Bruce.