AusBonsai

noah is definately onto the jbp growing, some great advice there and some nice trees he has too . scarring on black pines is normally done in the 1st year as a seedling, however you still can do it later. just have to be alot more careful not to bite in too hard. wiring in general, thickens trunks and branches. especialy if you are twisting and bending to shape. this procedure causes you and so should to tear the fibre's. (so that if you are too subtle with your bending and twisting fibres dont tear.) when the fibre's heal again it sets and also thickens the shaped areas. if you are not bending and twisting then letting the wire choke (just starting to indent ever so slightly )has the same effect of setting and thickening. with my bases, i set up a collar with some poly hose and thick wire through it. wrap it around the trunk base at soil level and tighten. the poly tube stops the wire from biting too soon and allows you to choke the the collared area. when young i reccomend the collar one year on one year off. Now that might only be for 6 months at a time, depending on your enviro, water and feed regime. twice usually does the trick. this method is usually used to correct reverse taper, however works to fatten a specific area too. these techniques are no prob on junis too, jamie.

Hey Guys.

So what would you recomend feeding my tree, and how often ?

Thanks for your replies

Cheers
Mick

Hey Guys. Back again

When you talk about the book "Pine Masters" Do you mean Bonsai Today Pine Series?

Cheers
Mick

mick wrote:Hey Guys. Back again

When you talk about the book "Pine Masters" Do you mean Bonsai Today Pine Series?

Cheers
Mick

yep!!! thats THE BIBLE for pines fert; grow better pellets. + liquid fert ( fish emulsion, blood & bone and seaweed tonic eaqual amounts mixed together )diluted to 1/4 strength mixes weekly.

btw how did you go reading brent walston's articles?

Hi Antonio.

Yea, That is a great site
I,m still a bit confused about back budding though? I,m not sure which candles (when they come) I should be removing on this particular tree?
But there is a lot of information on a lot of different species as well. When it comes to fertiliser, I have a worm farm that collects the castings ( or worm wee ), would that be advisable to use every now and then as well? Dad calls it liquid gold!

Sorry for all the questions, but I really want this tree to work. Really, it is my pet tree
I know that it takes years to develop a great black pine, but I have a lot of years ahead of me. I really want to give it the best beginning I can so once It does devlop, It is exactly what I am Imagining.

Cheers
Mick

mark,

with regards to wire scaring, anything young up to pencil thickness should be fine as the trunk is still quite plyable. Mine were about this size when started and 2 years on with scaring there over the inch. Not too bad i think so it seems to work. The scars will eventually heal over with young material. I cannot stress enough about having a couple of sacrifice branches on your pines while in development. usually one or two at the bottom of the trunk ( not side by side or above each other as it will swell leaving an ugly bulge) ideally having one at the back of the tree and one as the new leader is preferred. Let these braches grow freely while developing your branches for the final design. after a year or two remove all needles except about 25% on the end of the sacrifices, also remove any sub branches on the same branch as it will draw energy . Doing this will put alot of energy at the end of the sacrifice branch making it longer and thickening the trunk up alot quicker. removing needles also allows more air, light into the interior of the tree increasing your chance of backbudding. do not remove candles on the end of your sacifice branches .
I have seen pines with sacifice braches up to 5 feet tall. mine are around 60 cm atm and im growing almost all for final shohin height.
hope that helps

mark,

asking is how you learn but do try to get the book if you can I wouldnt remove any candles on a pine such as yours yet. really you want branches the desired thickness etc before you start the refinement process , removing candles and bud selection is for when your tree has grown a bit first then you can work on secondary branching. really at this age you want to get good movement in your trunk, thicken it up and when you select your final branching put movement in them too. let the braches grow to desired thickness making sure you have some interior buds to cut back to once the branch is thick enough. this is how i grow JBP but other members maybe using another method which maybe better.

mick you wont get all of this on your first tree, so relax and enjoy, keep studying. use this one as a learning so as to get better material in future and make a masterpiece from. to this point you have done extremely well. didnt wanna do your head in with all this jargin but im glad you are now aware and hungry.

Hey all.

Japh, have you tried the method of using needles and fertiliser, or know anyone that has ,and succededd?

mick wrote:Hey all.

Japh, have you tried the method of using needles and fertiliser, or know anyone that has ,and succededd?

I actually got the tip from this post viewtopic.php?f=104&t=2041&p=19936&hili ... ick#p19936

So it looks like Tom Cochrane recommends it.

I haven't looked at the link yet Japh. I wil tomorrow, buut I'm very interested in the proccess.
Pine will bud through thin bark as I've read, so maybee it will work

cheers
Mick

anttal63 wrote:noah is definately onto the jbp growing, some great advice there and some nice trees he has too . scarring on black pines is normally done in the 1st year as a seedling, however you still can do it later. just have to be alot more careful not to bite in too hard. wiring in general, thickens trunks and branches. especialy if you are twisting and bending to shape. this procedure causes you and so should to tear the fibre's. (so that if you are too subtle with your bending and twisting fibres dont tear.) when the fibre's heal again it sets and also thickens the shaped areas. if you are not bending and twisting then letting the wire choke (just starting to indent ever so slightly )has the same effect of setting and thickening. with my bases, i set up a collar with some poly hose and thick wire through it. wrap it around the trunk base at soil level and tighten. the poly tube stops the wire from biting too soon and allows you to choke the the collared area. when young i reccomend the collar one year on one year off. Now that might only be for 6 months at a time, depending on your enviro, water and feed regime. twice usually does the trick. this method is usually used to correct reverse taper, however works to fatten a specific area too. these techniques are no prob on junis too, jamie.

only just seen this about the thickening, will have to try it, i have a young JBP that i have wired and twisted the #@$% out off so maybe i dont need to worry to much bout that one thickening for now, but the collar ide on juni's sounds good will have to try it!!!

Well here it is. I repotted into a larger pot today, and took the advise of using thicker wire and exagerating the momentum of the trunk line.

Hopefully I didnt bend it too much.

these pics give me a bit of relief. i used the same size wire. but put a lot more movement in mine a while back and all is healthy. the one i got is going for the rugged twisted mountain sorta look like it has been mashed by everything in its path. so i dont think you need to worry bout the bends. mine has actually gone around itself. will post pics if you want and dont mind on this post. or can start a new thread. but mine is in this development too. bit over pencil thick so...
sorry guys got lost missus distracted me

Yea I would love to see some pics of your tree Jamie
You can post them on this thread if you would like, Its up to you mate.

Cheers
Mick