JBP graft

[shibui]

When Jow was up here last winter to help dig the field grown trees he asked about grafting techniques for pines so I grabbed a pine and did a demo. Afterwards I put it back on the bench saying it would probably not survive because it was in direct sun. A couple of weeks ago I went past and noticed it was indeed alive and actually growing well. Just lucky or are they tougher than we think?

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[Jow]

After getting some pointers from you i was able to get a 2 out of 2 sucess rate this year. Both the grafts were downwards pointing too!
I will be doing a whole lot more grafting in future years.
Its definately easier than i expected, then again maybe it was a good year for it or i just got lucky.

Thanks for the tips Neil.

[shibui]

As long as you're not blaming the teacher

[alpineart]

Hi Shibui , well done on the graft , any chance of a tutoral on your method .Cheers Alpine

[makro]

Hi Shibui,

Can we please have a tutorial so that us newbies can try our hand at it as well. and if it isnt asking too much photos would be awesome

[Gerard]

Hi Shibui,
What is the best time of year to attempt this type of graft,
Black Pine?
Radiata?
Scotts?

[Jow]

Before buds start to move in late winter/ early spring is the time to do it.

This is a pretty good video showing the process which should give you all some info while you wait for Neils reply.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3PVlqQHZHM

[makro]

thanks for the post Jow

[shibui]

Although it is not the accepted time of year to be grafting pines I have tried one to get some pics. Who knows it might even be ok. I graft citrus, natives and some other evergreens during summer so why not pines? Theory says the grafts should heal quicker while the trees are active. The trick with evergreens is keeping the scion alive until it heals - thats what the plastic bags are for.

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Remove most of the needles from the scion to reduce the moisture demands of the scion. The wedge is normally longer on one side (will end up closest to the trunk)

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Note that the scion is aligned with one side of the rootstock so that cambium is in contact

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Plastic wrapping stops the scion from drying out in the time it takes for the cambium to unite and begin passing water and nutrients to the new graft. These ziplock bags work really well.

The graft pictured is normally used to graft a new variety onto JBP seedlings. For bonsai it is better to graft as low as possible so the grafting scar will not be visible because of the developing nebari.

To add branches graft shoots onto the chosen spots higher on the trunk. As Jow pointed out it is possible to graft in reverse so the shoot pints down instead of up to give a better base to the future branch.
or graft on branches where shoots will not grow

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[alpineart]

Mate you have made my day , looks like my big pines are going to have some more battle scares over and above the 30 inarches already set . I guess i could set maybe 30-40 grafts over different times and see how they go . Still got "4 out of the 6 foot" of the lower Naked trunks to fill so its a definate goer . Too much to do at the moment but i will definately try these on for size . Would it matter where on the trunk they were set as they have 300-400 mm between the whorls would 3-4 between each whorl work or create to much strees on the roots .These have massive root balls, needing repotting into 400-500mm pots currently in 300mm pots . The trees are the big 3m JBP that i'm fusing the apex .It will be removed in Winter I hope .Which is the safest/Appropiate time to actually do it Appreciate any help .Cheers Alpine

[shibui]

Hi again Alpine,
So many ideas, so much to do!!!

As mentioned, pines are traditionally grafted in late winter, early spring just before the candles start to lengthen. Ideally the rootstock (the one you are grafting onto) should be active and the scions (the buds you are grafting on to the rootstock) should still be dormant. This can be achieved by putting the rootstocks in a warmer position in winter. In effect I do not think it really matters all that much - as long as the grafted scions are protected from drying out while the healing takes place.

When putting on multiple grafts I try to avoid putting one straight above another. I do not have any evidence this is important, just a feeling that the sap flow should not be interrupted down or up to a new graft so it will heal quicker. I regularly put one scion on one side and another a little higher or lower on the opposite side of the trunk.

You can graft on to any point on a trunk or branch but it is easier to match cambium where the trunk is smooth, rather than trying to cut through a lump or whorl where branches have been in the past ( hope that makes sense).
With older wood it might pay to rub off old, flaky bark so you can open up the flap a bit easier and tie it up better.

I'll see if I can get time to get over some time in late winter and maybe go through it again sometime in late winter. Maybe send a reminder sometime.
Will catch up sometime anyway.

[kcpoole]

Gives me some greta ideas to develop some Radiata pines I am considering collecting next year

I assume the same proces will apply to grafting onto a section of mature tree ?

Ken

[shibui]

Hi Ken,
The technique should apply to older wood. The last pic I posted above shows a graft put into the base of a branch of one of my black pines about 20 years old. The branches of that tree have grown too long with foliage just at the ends now and no inner buds so I'm trying to graft shoots at the base of most branches and then regrow branches with the techniques I have learnt since.
As mentioned above you may need to scrape off older, furrowed or flaky bark in order to get the graft to sit well.

[alpineart]

Hi , Shibui , i certaimly do understand what your saying , I should have a good supply of scions from the trainers i have here , so i will be on the money come Winter . I'm not in a hurry to severe the trunks just yet another , season together should be enough to produce workable sticks with plenty of growth to play with .Thanks for the info . Under the pump from all sides at the moment but we will have to catch up soon .Cheers Alpine

[shibui]

Just updating this thread.
The graft I did in December for the pics above is still green and healthy.

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and the graft union looks to be healing nicely.

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I have replaced the plastic bag over the scion but left it open at the bottom to allow a little more air circulation and start to accustom the grafted scion to normal humidity.

The survival of this graft interesting because accepted wisdom, as mentioned, says pines should be grafted in spring. Although this is only a limited trial it looks promising for extending the grafting season for pines and possibly other evergreens.