Ficus macrophylla

[buddaboy]

Gday, Last November I bought myself a little tree for my birthday. Ive made some minor styling changes, what does everyone think?

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Ok, My question is: should I wait to halve the trunk again, or let the side branches develop a bit first?

If I can Im looking for an upright formal from the base section.

Thank You for your comments,
Ron

[Jon Chown]

Hi Ron, I would cut back to just above a side branch around where the red line is and train the branch as a new leader, this will be about the only way that you can induce some taper into that otherwise straight trunk.

Buddas Fig.jpg

Jon

[buddaboy]

Thanks for your imput Jon, and PLEASE believe me when I say I am not being argumentive when I ask why? I thought the trunk had enough of a taper as is ( see pic ), or am I missing something.

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Im not trying to be smart here, this is the first time I am trying to go with traditional styles. Ive got a heap of books(Koreschoff, Harrington, Webber, and Yoshimura / Halford), but up till now Ive basically been trying to make figs look like figs. The bug hit really hard 4 years ago, and all of my seedlings are still to small or not developed enough for me to practice on. Some are getting close, and looking at the trees on this site I find at least four of my trees are going back to growing pots.

Thanks,
Ron

[Jon Chown]

I have no problem with your asking why Ron. Here are my thoughts on this tree. While in your original post I think that you mentioned that you were thinking about Formal Upright as a design for this one, I guess that I ignored this fact for the simple reason that Figs just dont grow in a formal upright style in nature (or at least none that I have seen).

Given that reasoning, the next design choice would be between Informal Upright and Banyan and in my opinion which ever of these you decide reducing the height and choosing a new leader will do two things - first and most obvious is that it will increase taper in the trunk (yes you have some at present but not enough to my liking) and second by cutting back this hard you will encourage more branches lower on the trunk for selection later on - these will also assist in thickening the trunk.

I hope that that makes sense

Jon

[Marc]

Hi Jon and Buddaboy, seems to me Jon, that if he cuts at your red marker then the height of this would be about 20cm, maybe 30cm (hard to be accurate). So i guess it depends on how tall-large, or not, that buddayboy wants this tree. Soooo, to cut here would be OK, in my mind, or even a little higher, but certainly no lower. But cutting here would really, REALLY, shorten the tree.

So, Buddaboy, how big to see this tree ultimately?

[buddaboy]

Marc & Jon, at the moment the tree is as follows:
66cm from soil to top
22 cm from soil to the top of the highest root
4cm across above the last root
3cm across top.
Taken with the exposed roots at soil level its about 9cm across.

I would like to see an informal upright if I have the skill, as I already have a couple of Banyans... at various levels of success.
Having got out a tape, I see your point Jon about the taper. What taper? It looked better when I cut it than reality shows. Ok, now the next question.

How high above the last root should I cut the bottom of the angle? also, do I cut it side on to my front side or front to back or does it not make a difference?
I will be choosing the most interesting side for the front. As for how tall, probably no taller than 40-45cm if I can. I may have to do away with some of the exposed roots to reduce the overall height.

Ron

[Jon Chown]

Ron, without knowing what you have underground, it is difficult to say although with my experience there will be plenty of time to work on the final root selection at the next potting. As for the aerial roots higher on the trunk, they can go there will be plenty ot time later to select and work on aerials and these trees produce heaps anyway.

I have marked on your photo where to make the first cut (a bit heigher than the final cut). Idealy you will be looking for two new shoots on the trunk (marked in green) and once these shoots have strengthened a little make the second cit between them as shown (the reason for this is because the growth of these two shoots will assist in the closing of the cut wound). As time goes by, you may choose the lower one as your first branch and the upper one will become your new leader. When you do your repot next year, you can change the potted angle to get the best flow from the trunk line.

Rons Fig Roots.jpg

I hope that all makes sense Ron and please understand that this is only one method of producing and working on a trunk.

Jon

[buddaboy]

Thx for that schematic Jon. I will wander out after Brekkie and start on it. LOL

The good thing about Summer is Im 90% certain that I will get the offcut to strike roots as well. This means I will have 8 trees for a $49.95 outlay. Yay me

Will post pic when done,
Thanks,
Ron

[buddaboy]

Ok,main tree is now 30cm tall.

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Thanks again for your advice guys.
Ron

[aaron_tas]

much better buddaboy

[Jon Chown]

Well done Ron - will be keen to see it in a few months. Keep us updated.

Jon

[LZRD84]

much better.