collected

[Max]

dug these 2 last year plus a few others
hawthorne

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The main trunk is pretty straight with an ever so slight bend haly way up. It stands about a metre, i chopped there to give me options. The second trunk has nice movement be it spaced and the trunks are barking up. However i have "no idea" as to the overall height/carving/direction i should take it. Any suggestions or verts you mob???

small leaf privet

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not deciduous but a great nebari happening. Main trunk is about 7-800mm to the chop. I will shorten the first branch to try to get a better taper before branching, again any suggestions or verts most welcome

These were first planted in gravel at the nursery on collection. Nothing happened til about 6 weeks into spring, then buds popped everywhere. The shoots were then cut back because they were not a good look for a native nursery . I then had to remove the trees mid summer which had them taking 3 steps back before slowly bouncing back. The joys of starting a new job

[Watto]

With the privet I would completely remove the thicker of the two trunks. That will give you better taper and a smaller bonsai with a wide base (nabari). This is working on the theory of making the smallest bonsai possible from the material available. I need more time to think about the Hawthorn.

[Mbunro]

agree with watto on the privet.
is there anything happening higher up on the hawthorne? the base inst very inspiring so could think about some layers closer to the top

[Max]

Hi guys, thanks for that , had not even considered chopping the main trunk off the privet. There is nothing happening on the hawthorne so the idea of layering just below where there is a slight bend might have to be the go

[shibui]

I always find it hard to work out the best style for a tree based on a 2D image because the nuances of depth, root placement, etc is not clear in a photo.
Based on what I can see I would probably use the same technique on both these trees because they both seem to have the same issue - large thick trunk with no movement or taper.
Rather than completely removing the larger trunk I'd consider converting some of it to jin. Cuts that size are going to be very visible for a long time so may be better to make a feature of them. Uro (hollow) is another option after removing large branches from trees.

You may find that hawthorn does not layer easily? I'm sure I saw a thread by Bodhi when he tried to propagate his Pauls Scarlet hawthorn without success.
They will sprout very well when cut back though, even right down to the ground so don't be frightened to prune hard if you need to.
This year I'm also trying some root cuttings which also seem to shoot quite happily.

[Max]

Thanks Neil. Hopefully i can find someone who has experience in "Uro" around my way

[shibui]

What's to know? Just cut off, hollow out the stump just a but with the dremel or other carving tool and paint the bare wood black - instant mysterious hole in an old trunk. Will gradually look better as the bark starts to roll over the edges a bit.
Maybe an owl lives in there.....

[Max]

Umm...oh okay.. i thought it would be best to carve out 1 half side of the trunk

[GavinG]

Too low for any sensible owl. There was a frog that lived in the Koreshoff Zelkovas in the NBPCA, many many years ago.

Gavin