Trunk Chop Japanese Maple - Thoughts?

[count_thumper]

Hi All,

I've read previous threads on this topic, yet having trouble understanding the ideal spot and want some clarification before I proceed.

I've had this maple for a couple months, bought from a nursery.

Find attached image of what the tree looks like at present: http://imgur.com/a/AwrfH

It looks as though the tree has previously been cut, however wondering if I can trunk chop from just below the cut mark in the second image? - From what I can gather I don't need to leave branches for a maple?

Or is it too early / let it grow a little before I go for a trunk chop?

The last picture I've added is from this site, I believe this is the 'right way to chop', should this be horizontal or on a slight slant? and is this essentially what I should be doing for my Maple (I've put in a yellow line of where I'm thinking of chopping in the album).

Thanks for your help Bonsai experts!

[Ryceman3]

Wow, that's a lot of maple to lose in one trunk chop!
For me, I would consider maybe performing that task next Autumn (that is a good time of year to do it on maples) and instead look at the possibility of some air layers in the meantime... It's a good time to do that now and if you get them on quick enough, they will hopefully be ready to remove in time.
That way, you might be able to use some of that tree above your proposed chop position.
Food for thought!

[treeman]

No don't cut it there. If you need to cut heavily, you should cut above the thinner branch on the right (first picture). Cut about 25mm beyond that side branch. That is step #1. To produce a good tree from this will take planning, persistence and faith. If you decide to cut where I suggest, That branch will now become the trunk extension. Now for step 2 ( ) You will need to let that branch grow for 2 years without pruning. In the mean time, if the tree needs repotting, you can do some minor root work to set the nebari up for the future but not too much just yet, you want it to GROW! If all goes well, in 2 years, the diameter of the new trunk extension will be about 1/3 that of the main trunk. (if you're not happy with it's thickness you'll know what to do) At this time you can cut the new top at the first node (visible in the first pic) and everything else By now we should have some kind of trunk to work with. Get back to us then for step 3..............
.....
That's pretty much what I did here: viewtopic.php?f=129&t=22845

[treeman]

You can see the original cut here at #1. #2 would be your side branch. I was lucky enough to have #3 and #4 as well but you will basically form the new top as in the red circled area. If you think you have lower branches appearing where you may want to use them after the 2 years, you can leave a stub with a node there as well rather than remove them entirely.

jmtc.JPG

[count_thumper]

Cool Cool,

Thanks Ryceman & Mike.

I'll give air layering a shot tomorrow/ something I've never tried before, but youtube is my friend ...I guess it's not a big deal if I mess up the air layering considering I'll be cutting anyway.

Mike, I'll be using your advice - I've added in a new photo to the album: http://imgur.com/a/AwrfH - Mike is the last photo, roughly where you were suggesting?


Thanks again!

[treeman]

Cool Cool,

Thanks Ryceman & Mike.

I'll give air layering a shot tomorrow/ something I've never tried before, but youtube is my friend ...I guess it's not a big deal if I mess up the air layering considering I'll be cutting anyway.

Mike, I'll be using your advice - I've added in a new photo to the album: http://imgur.com/a/AwrfH - Mike is the last photo, roughly where you were suggesting?


Thanks again!

Sorry for the late reply count. Yes that's a good spot. Later you can remove the stub and clean out the wound and seal it. You don't HAVE to cut there but it gives you a bit of a buffer in case you get some die-back. You should also probably seal the cut with wax or something as well. You will probably find that after cutting, the tree will be stimulated to make some new shoots from the same node as the branch is coming from. Remove them as soon as you see them. or at least don't let them get too strong.

[63pmp]

Never chop maples in autumn. Unless you like dieback. Maples are pulling nutrients back to roots in autumn, not thinking about pushing nodes.

[Ryceman3]

Never chop maples in autumn. Unless you like dieback. Maples are pulling nutrients back to roots in autumn, not thinking about pushing nodes.

I'm thinking more like after leaf drop when all the good stuff has already migrated down to the roots and the tree is getting ready for dormancy. The end of Autumn essentially ... Not sure that is such an unusual timeline?

[count_thumper]

Hi all,

Thanks for the replies!

I've gone ahead and air layered the suggested spot. I've never air layered before, so I'm not sure if I put enough spagnum moss in, but think it will be ok, then going to chop in early Jan (Might not be the best time, but I don't think I can let the air layer go for too long.) - Also once I cut, I thought maybe I should have let the trunk thicken more haha

In regards to air layering, I have the bag of wet spagnum moss tied to the trunk - should I poke a hole in the bag in a few weeks to add some water to make sure the moss is still moist.

Thanks!

[63pmp]

I would use large cupped handsful of moss. Which i guess is about a litre of moss. Don't seperate layer until its got roots, which may not come until february. Wait and see if you push a timetable on them they will strive to tuin it. Might be a bit late but I have better success if bark removal is about 1 cm below a node ring. If you can, rotate the tree so foliage gets even light on all sides.

[Ryceman3]

Hi all,

Thanks for the replies!

I've gone ahead and air layered the suggested spot. I've never air layered before, so I'm not sure if I put enough spagnum moss in, but think it will be ok, then going to chop in early Jan (Might not be the best time, but I don't think I can let the air layer go for too long.) - Also once I cut, I thought maybe I should have let the trunk thicken more haha

In regards to air layering, I have the bag of wet spagnum moss tied to the trunk - should I poke a hole in the bag in a few weeks to add some water to make sure the moss is still moist.

Thanks!

In a few weeks if you can see condensation in the bag then no need to add water, it is moist enough. If not, I have a syringe that I inject water (Seasol if you like) directly through the plastic, it's a lot easier than opening and adding water. Be careful though, you don't want the layer too wet as that will affect root growth. I cover my layers with foil - not sure if you did that... my technique essentially follows the guidance of RayM on this forum - he's a layering guru! Good luck with it. Post a pic if you have one.

[treeman]

Never chop maples in autumn. Unless you like dieback. Maples are pulling nutrients back to roots in autumn, not thinking about pushing nodes.

Unless you cut roots (spring), Autumn is the best time to prune Japanese Maples. There is a narrow window when just the last few leaves are about to fall. Any other time results in bleeding. The fact that sap is being withdrawn at this time is the reason to cut then.

[63pmp]

Maybe its whwre I live because if I chop maples in autumn it truly stuffs them.

[count_thumper]

Thanks for all the replies!

Here is the maple with its sphagnum moss plastic (diaper) bag.

Fingers crossed it all goes well, on a side note im not sure if I cut deep enough but i'll soon find out


Mike

[count_thumper]

Hi All,

Thought I would provide an updated.

The air layering didn't go to well...well it didn't go at all haha

But oh well, I went ahead with the trunk chop and everything seemed to work out ok. However I'm not sure if I cut on too much of an angle.

Pictures in the link down the bottom: https://imgur.com/a/AwrfH

Advice is welcome, although I guess for now I'm just playing the waiting game.


-Mike