What else do i need? Soil mix...

[Raymond]

I am going to mix my own soil for this repotting season. On hand i have:
* Akadama - both the fine and medium sizes
* Coco Peat - fresh bag from the big green shed
* Coarse river sand - 2-4mm particle size
* Sphagnum Moss

So what else do i need i have been sifting through this great forum for days reading up on soil recipes. Just curious to hear what others might do with my current ingredients...

[shibui]

You can grow just about anything in just about any mix - just need to learn how to water and fertilise to suit the mix you use in your conditions.
Personally I don't use akadama. Plenty do, and manage to grow good bonsai, but the few times I have had a plant in akadama it stayed far too wet.
I wouldn't use sphagnum in a mix either. Use it for layering.

I would add pine bark to the ingredients you have listed but that's because I'm used to using it.
My mix: 8 parts 3-6mm pine bark; 2 parts propagating sand (about 3-5mm) with slow release fert, micronutrients, iron and a splash of dolomite, gypsum and zeolite.
Soil less mixes need iron and trace elements or your plants will suffer.

[kcpoole]

Whatever you do, do not repot all your trees in a new mix without testing if for a year first in your own environment.
There are a million people doing bonsai with a million different soil mixes.

IRRC Akadama lovers use 60 - 80% Akadama and the rest peat and decomposed granite so that is where i would start. ( I tried Akadama and now use diatomite)

Ken

[hawkeyes]

Good advice Ken.

[Raymond]

You can grow just about anything in just about any mix - just need to learn how to water and fertilise to suit the mix you use in your conditions.
Personally I don't use akadama. Plenty do, and manage to grow good bonsai, but the few times I have had a plant in akadama it stayed far too wet.
I wouldn't use sphagnum in a mix either. Use it for layering.

I would add pine bark to the ingredients you have listed but that's because I'm used to using it.
My mix: 8 parts 3-6mm pine bark; 2 parts propagating sand (about 3-5mm) with slow release fert, micronutrients, iron and a splash of dolomite, gypsum and zeolite.
Soil less mixes need iron and trace elements or your plants will suffer.

Thanks Shibui.

Whatever you do, do not repot all your trees in a new mix without testing if for a year first in your own environment.
There are a million people doing bonsai with a million different soil mixes.

IRRC Akadama lovers use 60 - 80% Akadama and the rest peat and decomposed granite so that is where i would start. ( I tried Akadama and now use diatomite)

Ken

Thanks KC. I have a recipie for my climate that others use, plus i still have some pre-mixed soil from a bonsai nursery. After doing some reading, i get the feeling my mix is holding too much water for some of my trees. i understand i live in WA and our Summer is hot and dry, but i water 2-3 times a day and some of my junipers and pines seem to be too wet. Might be drainage issue, not so much a water retention issue

[Matt S]

Hi Raymond,

If you're watering 2-3 times a day you're definitely going to need good drainage! The climate here in Adelaide is similar in summer but I still only water once a day. The soil needs to dry out slightly before you rewater, otherwise the soil and tree roots can't breathe. Fine for a Willow, not so good for a pine.

There's some great advice in this thread and as stated there are a million soil recipes that people swear by. I've found a good starting point is 2 thirds inorganic (pumice, zeolite, pumice etc) to 1 third organic (pine bark, peat, neem etc.), then tweak according to the species and whatever climate you have in your backyard.

Good luck.

Matt.

[evan]

After doing some reading, i get the feeling my mix is holding too much water for some of my trees. i understand i live in WA and our Summer is hot and dry, but i water 2-3 times a day and some of my junipers and pines seem to be too wet. Might be drainage issue, not so much a water retention issue

If your pines are too wet, try using 100% coarse river sand for stock and 60-70% for established trees (with 30-40% Akadama). That's what they do in Takamatsu and it works brilliantly as long as you keep up with regular fertilising.

[Rolf]

I am going to mix my own soil for this repotting season. On hand i have:
* Akadama - both the fine and medium sizes
* Coco Peat - fresh bag from the big green shed
* Coarse river sand - 2-4mm particle size
* Sphagnum Moss

So what else do i need i have been sifting through this great forum for days reading up on soil recipes. Just curious to hear what others might do with my current ingredients...

Hi Raymond,

I'm living in Perth WA, so similar climate as yours.

For JBP I'm using 50% Pumice 50% Akadama (particle size 5-8mm)

JBP.jpg

Watering once a day in summer, at extreme temperatures twice or three times because it is free draining.

Using Power feed pro, dynamic lifter in little bags!! so you don't ruin your good drainage. Important as shibui pointed out Trace Elements!!

Same mixture as above for Junipers except I'm adding 10% of matured pine nuggets. (Ausgro Orchid Nuggets mini 5-8mm) for acidity.

Also Chinese Elms love a coarse mixture 80% Pumice and 20% Akadama.

elm.jpg

My stock grows usually in good potting mix and or the open growing bed.

But I reiterate the comment earlier on, everybody has his own recipe and if successful you stick with it!!!

Hope that's helping!

Cheers
Rolf

[Raymond]

I am going to mix my own soil for this repotting season. On hand i have:
* Akadama - both the fine and medium sizes
* Coco Peat - fresh bag from the big green shed
* Coarse river sand - 2-4mm particle size
* Sphagnum Moss

So what else do i need i have been sifting through this great forum for days reading up on soil recipes. Just curious to hear what others might do with my current ingredients...

Hi Raymond,

I'm living in Perth WA, so similar climate as yours.

For JBP I'm using 50% Pumice 50% Akadama (particle size 5-8mm)

JBP.jpg

Watering once a day in summer, at extreme temperatures twice or three times because it is free draining.

Using Power feed pro, dynamic lifter in little bags!! so you don't ruin your good drainage. Important as shibui pointed out Trace Elements!!

Same mixture as above for Junipers except I'm adding 10% of matured pine nuggets. (Ausgro Orchid Nuggets mini 5-8mm) for acidity.

Also Chinese Elms love a coarse mixture 80% Pumice and 20% Akadama.

elm.jpg

My stock grows usually in good potting mix and or the open growing bed.

But I reiterate the comment earlier on, everybody has his own recipe and if successful you stick with it!!!

Hope that's helping!

Cheers
Rolf

Questtion if I may, WHERE do you obtain your pumice? Finding it tough to get it down here...

[Rolf]

Questtion if I may, WHERE do you obtain your pumice? Finding it tough to get it down here...[/quote]


sent PM

[Raymond]

Which slow release fert is best to mix in? Lots to choose from at the big green shed

[shibui]

I prefer to add a controlled release fertiliser to the potting mix.
Slow release granulated ferts release nutrients for an unspecified period of time and at unspecified rates. Eg Brunnings granulated slow release. It is usually white/ grey lumps.
Controlled release ferts release a preplanned amount over a specified period of time. Examples are osmocote, Green Jacket, etc. Controlled release fert looks like little plastic balls. There's liquid fert inside that slowly seeps out through the skin of the ball.
I use the longest release osmocote I can get - 14-18 months because it will continue to feed my trees for the full 18 months so that when I forget to use soluble fert they are still getting some nutrients from the osmocote. 4 month osmocote is more commonly available. It is designed for plants that are only going to be in pots for a short while or for summer growing crops. Not sure it is really worthwhile in a bonsai mix unless you remember to add more every 4 months or so.
Osmocote for roses/ tomatoes/ citrus are all very similar formulation. it is designed to give the correct nutrients for flowering and fruiting plants so it would be good for flowering bonsai. If you want your trees to grow faster look for one that has higher N - for lawns, seedlings or general potted plants.

Like other parts of potting mix: use whatever you can get. Anything is better than nothing.

[Raymond]

Mixed up a small batch on Sat arvo. 2 parts Akadama, 2 parts Course River sand 1 part Coco peat. Mixed in some controlled release fertilizer and a small amount of charcoal...


Potted a developing Shipaku and a small feral olive that my daughter has claimed.

[Raymond]

Was having trouble finding pine bark of the necessary size so, i bought the big stuff, i bought a 2nd hand garden shredder and what do you know perfect chipped pine bark ready to seive out the fines
Will get 2 different sizes once sieved, 3-5mm and 6-8mm chips.