AusBonsai

Hi,
This Pinus Sylvestris was given to me about seven/eight years ago and it was in very poor condition. Some TLC and a re-pot has it in reasonable condition now.
It probably was a nice tree many years ago, but the gent who owned it became ill and I think it was neglected for many years before it came to me.
It was very tall and thin when I received it, but I have reduced the height over the years, but it is still very tall and very wide for a bonsai.
I have considered some compression wiring but as the branches are quite old I am unsure how it would react. It has been in this pot for a couple of years now and might need a re-pot in the spring.
I would appreciate some expert opions on design options as well as techniques that may assist in improving the overall image.
Many thanks in advance - Watto.

Hi Watto,

I would either repot now and leave bending and shaping for a year or bend and shape now and repot next March.

I am giving a talk/demo on heavy wiring and bending at the next Canberra Bonsai Society meeting and we are having a workshop afterwards as well.

Why not come down.2nd April 9.30 am at Hughes Community Center.

It looks a nice treee and looks in reasonable health so we could shape now. Liquid fert a couple of times before the meeting.

Grant

Thanks Grant, I think that's an offer too good to refuse.
I thought I might post a couple of photos showing the tree from all sides. I know that originally I said the first photo was the front, but everything is negotiable.
Cheers
Watto

Now I have had another look at it the right side could become the new front. A bit of trimming and a jin or two might make it look quite good.
What do you think?

Watto that pine looks the perfect candidate for a work shop.
I'm sure Grant can do wonders with it.

G-day,I think the right side is the best side for the new front.Some wiring on your first branch should spread it out at the back.Take off the left side 2nd branch.Wire the right side to curve towards you slightly.then leave it untill it's time to repot.When you repot try to slightly turn the tree anticlockwise about 25-30 degrees.That might help you see it in a new light.good luck.

Watto! I am keen to see where you are up to with this one? Any chance of some more piccies?

Hi Watto,

I am thinking you would probably reduce the height a little when you restyle but perhaps you could use this material and attempt 3 or four grafts before you commit to any design. I am considering doing this with one of my scotties which has recovered from ill health, but I am not a skilled grafter.

I suppose you must start somewhere.

If this type of pine can be airlayered-----air layer an inch or so above the first branch------when the upper tree is removed (and would be a more interesting style)I would jin or remove the cut off trunk from the lower tree --perhaps create a hollow at the first bend --and style the remaining new trunk as wind swept or somesuch--and "viola" two gorgeous trees from one

A couple of weeks ago I had the great privilege of getting advice, ideas and suggestions from both Grant Bowie and Leigh Taffe on this tree. They did help me decide on a new design, and we did jump in and do the first session to bring that design idea to reality.
You would normally spend a lot of money to get such great assistance on a tree but both these gents gave freely and willingly and I am very greatful for their assistance.
So, to the tree. Thin and graceful is the design principle and for those who get Bonsai Focus, there is a photo of a Pinus Sylvestris in the latest edition (March/April 2011) from Sakka Ten 2010 that is similar to the thing we have in mind. A lot of branches were determined to be no longer required, and removed. They will be converted to very small jins in time. The "hanging branch" was wrapped in rubber (bike inner tube) and then covered with self adhesive elastic bandage (usually used for wrapping footie players ankles), wired and an anchor wire used to put it in place.
A couple of photos from session 1.

Session 2 was today, and in the above photo, the branch on the right is to become the new apex, and the apex will become the new left side branch (sort of). And it was decided that a couple more branches were not needed in the design so they went too.
This is moving very old wood about 60 deg to the left and as such I needed more rubber and elastic bandage, and 8mm wire together with guy wires to get it where I wanted it. I do admit that the wiring job is not as neat as I would like, but I've got a busted/crook finger at the moment and that 8 mm wire is tough to get neat.
For now and bit of a rest to allow those new wiring jobs to set, a bit of work on a few jins and I have taken Grant's advice not to re-pot until 2012.
I would like to say thanks to those who offered ideas and I can assure all were considered, but this new dramatic look appeals to me. I hope you also enjoy and I hope to give you semi-regular updates.
Cheers

Hey Watto - looking good mate ! I am glad you arent rushing it - worth taking time over.

It is a little hard to tell from the pic - but it looks like the apex pointy uppy bit would look good bent down to the right - it would round off your apex and give the tree a little more composure by filling that space on the right. What do you reckon?

Hi,

looks like the lowest branch still need a sharper and lower angle coming off the trunk to accentuate the drama. At the moment the curve is still too rounded.

Anyhow good to see it doing OK.

Grant

Leigh - the uppy bit will be brought down in the next round of wiring, trust me.

Grant - fully agree, the first branch shape isn't that attractive but I am uncertain if I should take off all the wire etc and start again at this time. Horticulturally would that do any irrepairable damage?

Watto wrote:Leigh - the uppy bit will be brought down in the next round of wiring, trust me.

Grant - fully agree, the first branch shape isn't that attractive but I am uncertain if I should take off all the wire etc and start again at this time. Horticulturally would that do any irrepairable damage?

I can't remember if you placed raffia around the branch and around the trunk as well. If so and adequately wired you should be able to apply lots of pressure using fingers of both hands around the trunk, using the two thumbs on the branch and bring the branch down much sharper. You can even cause a big split on the top of the branch where it comes of the trunk as it will not interupt the sap flow and will heal and lock the branch in its new position.

Grant