AusBonsai

These are 3 nice redheads from the seven original chop tops that were grown from seed approx' 7 years ago. Ground grown as landscape trees for 4-5 years, then removed after the discovery of a borer attack in my Maples ,These have had only 2 seasons in training however they have been defoliated 4-5-6 times per year .

The results are very good considering they were naked chop top trunks void of all branches and shoots .i did have a top side branch left which was used as a new leader I had no intention of using these as bonsai so the roots were never worked on until they were removed from the terraces .This winter they will get some serious attention . Cheers Alpineart

I reckon they would look good as a threesome in the same pot Alpine

They do look great together

Nice start. PS, loving the red pot - very nice!

bodhidharma wrote:I reckon they would look good as a threesome in the same pot Alpine

Hi Bodhi , i had the same thought and suggested it to a member elsewhere and they shot me down in flames .After careful consideration , i do believe it would be a waste of 3 possible future great trees .They have progress fantastically and if they continue and i stay on the ball with defol's , another 2 seasons and they should be double the width but remain the same height .

I intend to inarch some seedlings on to ugly bases {rarther than ground layer} to improve the Narebri and possibly thread graft a new branch or 2 in the right positions .Cheers Alpine

Anja wrote:They do look great together

Hi Anja , they do , but i don't plan to make a group out of these particular trees .Maybe some of the layers i have taken or will take this Winter .I plan to set about 40 layers and remove some more bug infected trees , trunks now as i took to them with the trusty Stihl and whipped them into shape .Cheers

Josh wrote:Nice start. PS, loving the red pot - very nice!

Hi Josh , the other pots are for training purposes only , i never had any others left when i potted them up .I use what i have at the time , have to rob Peter to feed Paul this year and re-organize the pot department . Cheers Alpine

These Japanese Maples spent last season in the grow beds , i did place a few thread grafted whips around the base to improve the Narebri .Only a few of them made the grade , possibly due to the wet season .Now back in pots/dishes/trays they have been defoliated about 4 weeks ago and have just had some more root work done . I have used quite a few very small seedlings as threads and included a few tooth picks into a troublesome spot .They received another basic trim of the branches and unwanted shoots 2 days ago and will now grow on until the foliage hardens off , then another defoliation will be on the cards .I will endevour to strip them 4-5 times this season depending on the growth rate , if its anything like the current rate i should breeze it in .

Cheers Alpineart

Forgive my ignorance Ian, but can you please tell me what the tooth picks do?
Thanks,
Luke

Hi Luke308 , the tooth picks are insert into a drilled hole in the postion required for a new root .They are dipped in water then in hormone powder and pushed into the hole .This stimulates the cambium to produce the new root .Obviously the tooth pick works better than a slit or notch as i have done many the old way and its hit and miss .Using this method that Bodhidharma showed a while back i have had 85-95% root strike rate on Maples , Elms , Plums , but have yet to try it on Pines or Junipers .

I have set a pot air layer on a Zelkova , Japanese Grey Bark Elm using this method alone . Will hopefully get a result towards the end of this season . I intend to do a few big Japanese Maples soon ,if i pass the fitness test . Hope this helps

Cheers Alpineart

Thanks Ian,

I am looking at setting some layers on a 6'ft tall Liquid ambar that I have. Im curious as to what medium you use inside the pot layer with toothpicks? I plan to try various methods on the one tree as I think I can get 3 - 4 layers out of it.

Im going to do the standard sphagnum moss with rooting hormone wrapped in clear plastic, with dark plastic over it. I also plan to do a split pot layer which Im thinking of using sphagnum directly on the area being layered, and then fill the pot with diatomite and fines. I guess I will try this pot layer method with the toothpicks also, it cant hurt to try. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Hi Luke , on a 100mm trunk i would use around 2 dozen tooth picks on a 20mm trunk i would use about 6-8 .I find the open pot less troublesome and basically if watered nothing goes wrong .With the wrapped method you must constantly check moisture content and they do dry out sometimes on 1 side . A pot you just water as per normal tree and thats it .I use the same scoria as in my bonsai mix and spagnum mosss 50/50 by volume pack it in and .I have layered Zelkova , Pines , Maples , Prunus with more success than the wrap with Spagnum moss .My only failures with the pot method is too eager to remove or curl grub attack .

Cheers Alpine

Thanks again Ian, your a real help

I must ask though, how did you learn so many varied techniques? It seems you have a wealth of knowledge, and I am grateful to be able to pick your brain from time to time, but I'm curious to know how you got all that knowledge? Have you studied Horticulture or Aboraculture or is it just trial and error?

Also, how long do you leave the pot layer on for? I will be doing it today hopefully, if not, it will have to be after my back surgery.
Thanks,
Luke

on a 100mm trunk i would use around 2 dozen tooth picks on a 20mm trunk i would use about 6-8 .I find the open pot less troublesome and basically if watered nothing goes wrong .With the wrapped method you must constantly check moisture content and they do dry out sometimes on 1 side . A pot you just water as per normal tree and thats it .I use the same scoria as in my bonsai mix and spagnum mosss 50/50 by volume pack it in and .I have layered Zelkova , Pines , Maples , Prunus with more success than the wrap with Spagnum moss .My only failures with the pot method is too eager to remove or curl grub attack .

Cheers Alpine

Hi again Alpine, I set up this method on an old Elm of mine today How long before I should have a look at how things are progressing? 2-3 months?

[quote="Luke308"]Thanks again Ian, your a real help

I must ask though, how did you learn so many varied techniques? It seems you have a wealth of knowledge, and I am grateful to be able to pick your brain from time to time, but I'm curious to know how you got all that knowledge? Have you studied Horticulture or Aboraculture or is it just trial and error?

Also, how long do you leave the pot layer on for? I will be doing it today hopefully, if not, it will have to be after my back surgery.
Thanks,

Hi Luke , i trial and test every thing i can think of , i read very little , just look at the pictures .The only qualifications i have is a Trade - Builder /Carpenter /Joiner /Self taught with mini trees since i was 4-5 years old growing vegies and landscaping scale car tracks as a kid . Seriously that's it .I work smarter not harder .I need 2000 plus plants to play with to test things .I don't kill as many as i used too however i still push the limits of the tree's natural abilities , and mine most of the time .

Cheers Alpine