AusBonsai

Field growing trees requires a few skills don't ever think that you can plant trees in the ground and walk away they require some work. The following are some of my observations, and would equally apply to plants grown on in large containers.
Spend some time preparing the plant I usually grow my trees in pots for at least 2 years before planting them out. When you grow a tree from scratch remember to start from the ground up, try not to work on the whole tree at once.
Make sure the root system is radial and there are no roots heading straight down. If you field grow a tree with confused roots you will end up with a big mess.
I like to wire the trunks for curves before I plant them out while the seedling or cutting is still young and pliable.
Use sacrifice branches really low down on the trunk so you create a good taper. I cut out the foliage heading across the proposed trunk line to allow light to get into it so the little buds can stay healthy.
If you allow the proposed trunk to grow really tall then you must be prepared to cut it low and start again. remember the top of the tree must be fine and twiggy You really want the big scars to be as low on the trunk as possible, not at the top of the tree.
The sacrifice branches will only thicken the section trunk below them.
If you are growing trees in the ground for a few years lift them every year and root prune them. Be sure to cut out completely any roots heading straight down and any really strong surface roots. If you propose to grow the trees in the ground for a long time its a good idea to give them a year in a pot in the middle of the development stage so you can balance out the root system.
When growing deciduous or broad leafed evergreens don't even think about developing the branches while growing them on. These techniques are for trunk and root base only any branches developed in this way will be way too strong and heavy.
I recently lifted some banksias from the ground after 3 years I put a spade around their root system twice yearly. Once in mid spring then again in mid february. Their roots were nice and compact with heaps of fibre.
Always bury the rootbase below the soil surface the roots will develop much better if buried only expose them when you feel you have achieved the desired look.
When planting the trees out dig a wide hole and then mound it in the centre so you can arrange the roots easily.
Once you lift your tree into a pot then you can start working on the crown and branches, these should always be developed in a pot to achieve nice fine growth.
If you want information on field growing conifers don't ask me because I have had very little experience with them and prefer to do my training in pots.

sorry guys heres the ash pic

interesting stuff craig i am keen to see the trident maple once ground growing is complete.

there is other methods that you can use with ground growing in mind but keeping the trees in a grow box. you want to make a whole heap of holes in the grow box, or better yet the trays that carry tube stock as they have drainage down the bottom, you plant into that with it on the ground and allow the tree's roots to go into the soil beneath it, while still feeding from the top where the rootball is to keep that alive.
it can also be done in nursery pots where the roots come out the bottom into the ground, this makes for a tight root ball and it is easy to dig up again as all you do is chop the roots of at the bottom that are going through the pot and then you can take the tree out of the pot.


on thing you did say that makes me think is that you lift the trees every year and root prune, i thought doing so would slow down the trees progress as it takes a couple of years for a tree to establish in the ground?


jamie

Hi Jamie,
Your idea with the pots is a good one I have never intentionally done that but I am sure it would work fine. With regards to lifting the trees every year that may be an issue of climate. I find they just take off like rockets each year and if I left my trees in the ground for two years without root pruning the roots would be out of control and I like control.

Hi Craig,

Thanks for another great post, it is this sort of quality information that helps out us newbies to the art of Bonsai.

regards,
mike

Great info Craig. And after seeing the results I know you know what your doing.

Big point that must be highlighted. Conifers are totally different. You can't let the top of a conifer grow out because they often won't back bud so you need to keep foliage where you want it and balance energy while one low bud is left to get long.

I didn't realize the tridents had the big flat bases on them, very nice!

Hi Jarrod you are absolutely correct growth for branches on conifers must be maintained. The pines I saw field grown in japan had all the branching in place and then huge sacrifice branches coming out from low down in the trees. It would have taken them many years to prepare these trees for planting out.

Well I'll get to see all this for myself in just a few weeks

Nice stuff Craig, thanks for sharing. I totally agree with setting up the tree before planting out and having control. If it takes a little longer then so be it for a better tree!