AusBonsai

My Fertilising Regime is quite simple.
In summer ( when I remeber)
Charlie Carp once a fortnight, the other fortnight I use Seasol
Every 6 weeks or so I sprinkle some Dynamic lifter onto the surface of each pot.The Dynamic lifter is from Bunnings and is their "Rose" blend.

Although I think that there might be better products out there that might be better for natives as I think the DL might be a little strong?. Some of my trees have reacted a little adversely to it I think. Some ar browning off a bit adn losing leaves so hope they are OK. Nothing important really.

Ant mentioned another pellet fertiliser a while ago but I cannot find it at bunning so willl have to keep looking


Ken

Hi is there a reason why you use the rose blend DL? I use osmocote for natives on mine.

BB

I use the rose blend as it has an NPK of I think 10,8,12 and was looking at something balanced. The standard product was like 6, 1.5, 8 or something.

Osmocote is too slow Release, takes like 9 months to finish off and I do not feel will provide enough fertiliser to the trees. I like to put some fertiliser on the top of the pot and have the watering drag it through the mix to fertilise a little each day. A bit like the japanese and Amrican method of fertiliser cakes on the surface.

Note that at this stage I do not have many natives, and those that I do have get the same fertilising and Watering regimen as all my other trees.
Also I halso have mainly prebonsai. Most of my trees are in plastic pots waiting for them to get some age to them

Ken

your phosphorus is too high.

mix Osmocote with your soil before planting. A small scoop per bag works well.

I have found over a season (so take this with a grain of salt) that the best way to get rapid growth and to keep it healthy it to sit it in a shallow tray of water. Dont go too deep, about the depth oh the drainage holes and let it dry for day or two before refilling.

Correct NPK For Aussie Natives?
Any one have opinions / suggestions as to what they like?

As for Rapid Growth, I will plant out in the ground for a year or 2. I did all my natives in the ground but had to take them out as I am moving soon.
I will replant them when I move

not sure nitrogen or potassium is an issue but high phosphorus will kill them.

Native always put growth on when they have water. You will find winter they seem to grow a lot and in some cases the most. Thats why I suggest giving them a large pot and sit them in some water.

Asus101 wrote:not sure nitrogen or potassium is an issue but high phosphorus will kill them.

Asus101, you are certainly right.
before i knew about the whole "aussie natives hating phosphorus" thing, i killed 2 euc's with my usual fertalizing regime.

i use cow poo in my soil mix, also on the soil surface for my natives.
i use seasol aswell, every 2 weeks.

I was interested to see that Oz trees don't like Phos.
I very often use a fertiliser which is designed for tomatoes. Higher in Potash then average formulae. It results in strong growth without making big leaves and long internodes, a plus for mature specimens which have achieved most of their extension.
The practice of standing pots in water should be restricted to water loving trees. It can lead to root rot in the majority of species.

I found that by using lava rock on the bottom of the pot allows the bottom to remain moist. But thats only for nursery pot tree's. I have tubes of banksia, gum and hakea all doing it and I have had great growth.
Mine stays in water for about a day and a half then left for a day.

Oh and for summer only...

kcpoole wrote:Correct NPK For Aussie Natives?

Clinton Nesci recommends any fertilizer with phosphorus less than 2. I.E. 8:1.5:8. etc.

JayC

I have used Phostrogen for 25+ years and still do it has an NPK of 14. 4. 28 as most of our trees are acid lovers.
I alternate on the natives with Miracle grow for Azalea and Camelias NPK 28. 1.8 10 plus some trace elements. I have not had any bad reaction to either except when I used the miracle grow on Shimpaku they do not like a lot of Nitrogen.
This regime is used fortnightly though out the year.It is also used for Grass trees Xanthorrhoea preissii. Which hate over head watering. The one that most people will know that reacts to fertilisers are Proteacea Banksias and Adanathos, wooly bush. They get the same regime.
If you study Australian trees you will note they have growth spurts of up to eight times a year 8.
Dynamic lifter if used for too long will send the soil Alkaline. Which will be detrimental.
Most Australian plants need re potting about every two maybe three years so it should not be a problem.
I have had one occasion where it was in less time than that on a Melaleuca cuticilaris it reacted inside six months.
Australian plants still need all the trace elements. So every six months I give a dose of them. I buy a packet of complete trace elements. I then water it in I use March and September. As these are chemical fertilisers the plants take them up immediately. All liquid fertilisers are absorbed quicker that solids. organics need bacteria to break it down so the plant can absorb it when soil temps are low they are dormant there for not working.
Where with organic it takes four weeks for the roots to start absorbing them. Also if the temps are low the bacteria needed to break down the organics is dormant, also if you use an in organic mix there is no bacteria in the soil until it builds up which takes awhile. I hope this is of some help.
Pup

Pup,

Thats the sort of post that gives credibility to yourself - I will be listening. Information with explanations and experience.

Thank you

Jon

Great info Pup Thanks.

Can you explain any about Proteoid roots and how you have learnt to deal with them.
I have killed a few natives (just cheap or tube stock when I started 4 years ago) and I blame the infrequent fertilising and proteoid roots. What scares me the most with natives is that I am not keen on a different fertiliser for them. At the moment I use miracle grow or nitrosol once a week for all trees, natives and azaleas as well. I supplement with Dynamic lifter for all but the azaleas get azalea pellets. I have a sifted free draining soil with this fertilising once per week and my trees are in developmernt stage.

Thank you Pup for this tried and true post. Your experience and expertise are an inspiration to us all. Please keep up the excellent contributions to this forum so we can all benefit.

Soltan I have not had any problems with the proteoid roots as such. With collected stock it is a matter of slowly slowly. Depending where they grow.
The one thing is if you have a lignotuber do not bury it keep it above soil level.
As I have stated in another post I have discovered that if we re pot when the soil is wet it seems to work better. We all know that most of our trees will tolerate some drying ( not recommended though ). After trying this some 10 years ago I found there was little knock back so I have always reworked or re potted trees on the wet side. I will add VERY CARFULLY moving with a wooden chop stick. I am not sure whether I have answered you question or started some thing new. Any way I hope it is of some help Pup