AusBonsai

Hi everyone

This Japanese maple was gifted to me last year and helped start my bonsai journey. I mainly left it untouched last year with just with a bit of pruning after the first flush of growth in Spring. Now that the leaves have dropped I am planning to more critically consider what to do with this tree. As you can see there are probably many structural flaws but given the sentimental value I’m really keen to identify the best way forward for this tree.

The main issue that I am struggling with is how to address the bends in the tree, which to me appear a bit unnatural (especially, now, that leaves have dropped). In this respect I think one of the obvious solutions would be to chop the trunk / create an air layer (I think at least from the straight section). However, I would appreciate it if anyone had any other ideas.
Cheers
Chris

Personally, I don't see any issues with the trunk bends. I think it looks good, but that's just my opinion. I'm sure with leaves it looks great, yeah? You could definitly go for an air layer, like you said, at the point where you'd want to chop, creating two nice trees in the future, but with the risk of the layer not taking. I think it's really just up to you and what you like to look at. Either way, nice tree

I like the bends too. I spend a lot of time and effort trying to get bends like that in my trees. The dichotomy probably comes form the upper straight part being at odds with the lower bendy part. For good aesthetics there should be harmony throughout. Bendy trunks also look best with branches that also echo the bends. Really straight branches don't look good on trunks like this.

What I don't like about this tree is the thick part toward the top. Reverse taper rarely looks good in bonsai. Well tapered trees look far better but if you really want a straight trunk with no taper that's up to you.
I would be looking for a place to chop the upper trunk so you can develop a new apex with both taper and bends.

The problems you have are directly related to this being a Japanese maple. Pruning must be first class or they quickly develop swollen areas on both trunks and branches. I've also found that coral bark is a little more difficult to manage that ordinary JM. It seems to have long internodes and prefers to grow straighter twigs so good ramification can be difficult.

Thanks for all of your comments.

Shibui I think you best articulated the issue I am having regarding the dichotomy between the bends and the straight section. Would now be an ok to chop the upper trunk or is it best to wait closer to spring?

The closer to spring the more they seem to ooze liquid (bleed) after cutting. Some claim it is no problem even if the maples do bleed a bit but I try to prevent where possible.
I've been pruning my maples this week as soon as the leaves drop. A few little dribbles but nothing to worry about so far.

In other words, now is a good time.

shibui wrote: ↑May 20th, 2020, 8:01 pm The closer to spring the more they seem to ooze liquid (bleed) after cutting. Some claim it is no problem even if the maples do bleed a bit but I try to prevent where possible.
I've been pruning my maples this week as soon as the leaves drop. A few little dribbles but nothing to worry about so far.

In other words, now is a good time.

Thanks Shibui, I’ll give it a go this week then. I knew that now was a good time for pruning but wasn’t sure if a major cut was different.

In relation to the cut would it be somewhere around here?
Or alternatively

I cannot see enough of the roots structure, the 3D movement of the trunk and branches to make that decision from here. You are the one in front of the tree and can see the subtle things that would influence where to cut.
Don't stress too much. Whatever cut you make will be the correct one after you've done it.

shibui wrote: ↑May 20th, 2020, 9:28 pm I cannot see enough of the roots structure, the 3D movement of the trunk and branches to make that decision from here. You are the one in front of the tree and can see the subtle things that would influence where to cut.
Don't stress too much. Whatever cut you make will be the correct one after you've done it.

Whatever cut you make will be the correct one after you've done it
I do like the last image you postage and to cut as you have outlined that gives a new leader that can be wired and grown out to continue movement then cut again for taper etc . That's what I can see given the pictures