Hi john,
Excellent stuff there mate. I’m loving your enthusiasm for natives.
I have periods when I get strong shade, and also get myrtle rust. So I decided rather than always playing catch-up to the myrtle rust and being a sun chaser, to instead grow material that alleviates this problem. Which doesn’t help you now, but provides good for thought about future material.
I’ve trialled all of those in the last 10 years.
As it stands with my sentiment, I would say the best material are the Melaleuca halmaturorum. These guys are bulletproof, with lovely bark and tiny foliage. They can survive lack of sun better than a lot of other Mels. That one you have in the photo on the bottom left is excellent material. I’ll give you a collection of neglected Kunzea for it.
M. Thymifolia is absolutely gorgeous when in flower. They are the most spectacular of the Mels I think. However I found about a 30% loss if I worked the roots hard. I now take it easy when I repot M. thymifolia.
Melaleuca incana is delightful. I have 2 growing very well and have so far shown high resistance to both myrtle rust and strong shade. Nice soft growth.
M. ericifolia kept getting eaten by possums. The other Mels you have listed I just didn’t warm to and wasn’t impressed by their foliage and overall response.
I have found that Kunzea just require too much sun for me, to keep them in good health.
Kunzea ericoides is now the only Kunzea I’m pursuing.
For really heavy shade, I’d go with M linarifolia purpurea compacta. They had survived almost a year with just very low sun and constantly getting eaten.
I have low levels of sun in about a month from now for about 6 weeks. Fortunately all my natives are getting about 4 hours of strong sun at the moment and they’re all growing like they do in the middle of Spring.
I find the traditional wives tales on season growth are not correct for our natives. If you get at least a half day of full sun and its continually above about 23 degrees you get strong growth, and doesn’t matter what month. But for safety, I do my rootwork in October/November. It’s really simple in my opinion, when it warms up, the growth speeds up, when it cools down, the growth slows down. It doesn’t start to slow down after summer, it just grows dependent on the level of sun and the temperature.
If you can get your hands on Agonis parviceps, I really really highly recommend them. It’s possibly one of the greatest material for Bosnia of all time. It is incredibly hardy. I heavily cut back roots and in 10 days they were growing strong again. It has tiny foliage like a lot of Kunzea. It is highly tolerant of strong shade and has ZERO problems from Myrtle rust. It’s the next big thing in my opinion. Beautiful bark and naturally twists as it grows. The internodes are really short and keeps it bushy with plenty of options for styling. And it appears to shoot all along the trunk if it’s in strong sun. I was skeptical at first, because previous other species of Agonis had basically no resistance to Myrtle rust. But this is amazing, it has the highest resistance to it I’ve ever seen in the Myrtacea family.
Some other fantastic material for low sun and myrtle rust is:
Baeckea clarence River (very hardy, short thin and adorable foliage with little white flowers and shoots everywhere and very nice bark. Very high resistance to myrtle rust and can happily tolerate periods of strong shade.
Baeckea imbricata, another very hardy but slow growing material. Lovely foliage and medium resistance to myrtle rust. Just cut off the appearance of myrtle rust and it doesn’t faze the tree at all.
Leionema and Phebalium. Very high resistance to myrtle rust and tolerates very strong shade. Beautiful wattle-like trees. These should grow fabulously for you.
Melaleuca tamarascina, lovely small foliage like ericifolia (smaller than ericifolia though), and very high resistance to myrtle rust and grows slowly in strong shade but remains in good health.
And for Leptospermum, the highest resistance to myrtle rust and strong shade are:
Leptospermum flavescens cardwell
Leptospermum obovatum
Leptospermum scoparium burgundy queen
Leptospermum brachyandrum
Leptospermum lanigerum x
All other leptos that I have trialled have either got affected badly by myrtle rust or strong shade, or I just didn’t like the foliage / hardiness.