AusBonsai

interesting technique for easier bending

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=biTiEEojmA0

This technique has been used for quite a few years.
Here's a thread from Grant Bowie way back in 2011 with some more detail and photos viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8617&hilit=split+juniper
Here's one of my earlier trials with this technique though I did not post pictures of the trunk as I split it. Read further down for a warning about reverse taper when trunks are bound up tightly for too long - viewtopic.php?f=156&t=21980&hilit=+shimpaku+split

I've since used this technique a few times on other junipers, the thickest being around 2 cm diameter where it was bent - now a cascade style tree.

Thanks for posting tgward,
I've seen these trunk splitting tools available for purchase, but never really seen the method on how they are used.

On a separate note,@ 4:23 Peter states "ALL cascade trees have a little head" - that's got to be a generalisation - I've see plenty of superb cascades that are head-less?

Keep Calm and Ramify wrote: On a separate note,@ 4:23 Peter states "ALL cascade trees have a little head" - that's got to be a generalisation - I've see plenty of superb cascades that are head-less?

I agree - and albeit I am new to the hobby/addiction - I now tend to view such statements or 'rules' as helpful guidance because they are helpful ... but ... the more I learn, the more I am prepared to bend or break a rule here and there, if I think that breaking a rule may lead to an outcome that will be a better reflection of a natural setting... (as least in my mind's eye.)

my goodness he's rough on that poor plant. I've been lead to believe that it's a bit chancy doing top and bottom work at the same time with a juniper, is that Ryan Neil being too cautious, or is this treatment possible?

I think he is only "rough" on the tree because it is still being shaped/styled, the technique of splitting and then raffia, is this more time saving than just raffia-wiring and bending, as the tissues are connected, as opposed to being actually separated through "heart" wood. Would this also make that area weaker for later movement?

I don't think much was taken off the roots. Restyling and repotting a tree that has been in a bonsai pot for years is a world of difference to a first styling and first root reduction
Having said that I have occasionally done both roots and tops of new junipers on the same day and have not seen any adverse reactions. I think maybe the advice not to do both could just be a bit of caution, possibly a misinterpretation - I have always heard that pines should not have both roots and tops done in the same season. I haven't heard the same about junipers until now.
It may also depend on the climate. Very cold winters in many places could have an impact on how trees react. In our mild climate we can get away with plenty that others cannot.

Very cold winters in many places could have an impact on how trees react. In our mild climate we can get away with plenty that others cannot

I guess that's what it comes down to Neil. Ryan insists that the junipers get their strength from the foliage, and that you need to get it strong before doing root work....and never do root work and heavy styling/pruning in the same season.

We certainly do have a mild climate compared to the Pacific North West.

I did try this 2 years ago on a chinensis and procumbens juniper.
Both now have reverse taper issues.
I had same problem with badly placed shari [deadwood] on trunk. Though unrelated to this post.
I did not expect so much thickening of the bark as it healed [ugly bulge the result]
I really wish I had seen Neil's post back then