AusBonsai

I know this has been done to death already, but as I am about to repot a few Azalea, I'd like to know if this stuff is available anywhere in Queensland, please.

No idea but I use Kanuma for my Azalaeas and not Akadama

Ken

Hi Ken
I have noticed you have been selling Akadama around the traps lately
Can you please tell us what you would use it for, do you mix it with anything else and if so what, what are the advantages of using it over say Ray Nesci"s mix and what would the watering and fertilising regime be like, as much info as you can please mate as I am sure I am not the only one that does not know much about it.
Thanks
Paul

Paul W wrote:Hi Ken
I have noticed you have been selling Akadama around the traps lately
Can you please tell us what you would use it for, do you mix it with anything else and if so what, what are the advantages of using it over say Ray Nesci"s mix and what would the watering and fertilising regime be like, as much info as you can please mate as I am sure I am not the only one that does not know much about it.
Thanks
Paul

Okies here goes,
they are both mined in Japan and apparently from the same mine, Just different layers of the deposit. It is a Volcanic product. Kanuma and Akadama are actually classed as Pumice,
Here is a link to my recent thread on stocking them both. viewtopic.php?f=20&t=23689&p=238198&hil ... ma#p238198

Kanuma is lighter in weight and colour than Akadama and has a higher acidic content. It is and Ideal substrate for Azaleas and Camelias etc.
I use Kanuma Exclusively on all my Azaleas and have done for several years, It is used as the only component of the mix ( ie mixed with noting else)

Akadama is Harder, darker and Heavier and is used in conjunction with other products to creat a mix of your own style and desires. I tried Akadama when we at Ausbonsai first obtained some from Perth a few years ago.
I actually preferred to use Diatomite mix as it far cheaper here.
The recent issues we have had with Soft Diatomite i started to reevaluate other components and have b3een adding pumice ( from New Zealand) for about 2 years and find it excellent,
As i now have Akadama in stock, i wil be adding it to my currnet mix for all plants other than Azaleas.
My own mix will be now made up of 1 bag each of
Diatomite
Pumice
Zeolite
Akadama

no organics in my mixes you will note but i will try adding so,e pine bark to my Japanese maples to see if i can get them to survive better in Western Sydney wehere they struggle.

The reason i use inorganic mixes is because i was sick of losing trees to Curl grub infestations. By adding 30+% diatomite to your mix, you will never see another one

On most days, I water once perday only, Only the hottest 40+ degree days will i bother watering in the afternoon, and usually only those trees in smaller pots. I have performed numerous side my side experiments with similar trees in My mix Vs Rays and have found the trees will stay hydrated far longer and perform better.

Many people poo poo using my "Rock mix" but they have not tried it and just repeat the old wives tales. I tell them to try and then come back and discuss the findings.

Re fertilizer, i fertilize no more than anyone else does that uses Rays mix. The argument that Inorganic mixes need more fert is plainly false. As above, it all people to go and try then come back and discuss the findings.

Grant performed extensive substrate tests a few years ago and found that combinations of products performed better than single elements and will heartily agree with those findings too.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=5745&start=0


Boon in the US is renowned for his soil mix and is described here in this thread
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=11324&start=0

My original growing medium test thread here, there are lots of links off here to alternate mixes and mediums
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1878&hilit=+diatomite+akadama

Ken

Graeme wrote:I know this has been done to death already, but as I am about to repot a few Azalea, I'd like to know if this stuff is available anywhere in Queensland, please.

Kanuma is used for Azaleas usually, not Akadama.

Not sure if anyone has stocks in QLD but sent 20 bags there last week

Kn

http://www.bonsaiempire.com/blog/akadama-soil

Here's a bit of useful info with opinions from a handful of renowned artists

Interesting that it isn't a clay at all so when it breaks down it is sand like and apparently free draining still. I have only just potted some pines in it so my experience is only vey young

Squizzy

Thanks KC for your detailed response, I hope you were not supposed to be working, might send the boss broke.
Lot to go thru there to make a final decision whether I will buy any.

squizzy wrote:Interesting that it isn't a clay at all

One of those don't trust everything you read on the internet moments. It is without a doubt clay.

All good Evan.
I assumed it was a clay. I read through the notes and it said something like its clay like but not a clay as it doesn't stick to itself. I've since researched further and am now more confused. By dictionary terms "clay is a stiff, sticky fine-grained earth that can be moulded when wet, and is dried and baked to make bricks, pottery, and ceramics."

I guess it made sense to me that it wasn't clay but rather clay like as it didn't seem to stick together when crushed so more like the consistency of sand. I guess it has gone though a kiln like process during exposure to heat in a volcano and then settled as dust or volcanic ash where it is then mined as akadama. Does this sound right?

Cheers

Squizzy

I have also used Ken's mix for many years both as is and with some added pine bark. It certainly isn't necessary to add organic matter for bonsai purposes but I had to add some organic matter for terrestrial orchids which I also grow in the mix. These orchids require fungi to grow. Given that, I started to add some fine pine bark to all of my mixes and I believe (though this is only an anecdote, not a well controlled study) that there is some benefit to the plants in the way of pest resistance and not getting burnt leaves when the mix appears dry. I attribute this to the mycorrhizal relationships that soon develop on their own when a suitable substrate is in use. Not only that, but I also feel that when fertilising with organic substances, the plants are more quick to take up the fertiliser. This is not to say they get more nutrition over all, only the rate is changed.

I have tried different sources of pine bark over the years but will only use Orchiata Precision 3-6mm on my bonsai now. It is a weathered pine product rather than a composted pine products. The problem with the composted products is that they are fertilised with nitrogen to break them down quickly. This means the outside of the chips are decayed and grimy whilst the inside of the chips are still too fresh and filled with tanins and oils that are toxic to some microflora, slightly retard the growth of plants and the oils can leave the uncomposted parts of the chips water repellent (essentially useless in a mix).

What do you mix with yours Sqizz,or do you use it straight.

I used it straight as an experiment Paul. It could be a massive mistake however. This is the first I've used it and it was only last Tuesday I got it. When it comes to akadama I haven't got a clue. Please don't take any advise from me ( yet)

http://www.tachikawa-heiwa.com/Introduction.html

I didn't actually have any idea on how they mined it, but I managed to find this. So akadama=clay, but Kanuma does seem to be pumice. Squizzy, seems you're right on the money about volcanic eruptions, only it's the Kanuma.

But you'll find with the akadama that if you crush it up and wet it, it'll be exactly like clay out of the ground. In terms of the formation process, I don't think akadama is as volcanically awesome as pumice is and most likely formed the same way as clays usually do.

Ok. So my basic understanding of clay or clay soils is that the more organic content the heavier the clay. This logic goes by to my tafe days in soil science. Does anyone remember the sand, sandy loam ,loam etc scale. This was all based on its ability to hold together in a log when squeezed together.
It would be interesting to see how a large amount of finely crushed akadama holds together when moulded. Has anyone done this or know what the result is likely to be. I done a small amount this afternoon and it didn't seem to mould that well. A bit like the consistency of sandy loam to me.

Squizzy

My reason for wanting to know this is that in the event it does break down I would like to know it remains free draining like a sandy loam.

Squizzy