AusBonsai

Hi everyone
I know it's the wrong time of year to do anything but what can I do to improve the nebari on my trident when the time is right . On the right it has these huge crossing roots and then it has an elbow style root as well as all the roots being different thickness , input would be greatly appreciated thanks
regards
peterb

When it appears too difficult to fix and would take a long time, I generally start again by ground layering. Especially if the top part is still in development. Ground layering can give a very radial nebari where you can develop upon.

Would that be an option for you?

Ground layer at the top of those roots ( if the trunk long enough to lower a little), or root graft some new ones on and remove the ugly ones

both methods will tak a few years to achieve a good result.

Ken

Agree - ground layer will give you the best result of a nice flat radial root system and it is the perfect time to do it.

Yep.
Perfect time to consider a ground layer!

Hi Guys would the tournique method work on tridents as the tree is only 400mm to the top and it's 100mm at the base above the roots so if i ringbark it above the roots I'm going to lose alot of the taper. When I get off shift I'll take some photos of the whole tree . If I go with grafting onto the tree can I do thread grafts with the seedlings . Thanks for the input guys
regards
peterb

Hi Guys
Here are some photos , as you can see the tree isn't very tall and if I ringbark the tree for groundlayer I will lose a lot of the taper so question is can I use the tourniquet method on a trident or will that not work and if I do ringbark what is the narrowest I can go . All advice welcome
regards
peterb

You're right PeterB, I don't think there is enough room to ring bark, general rule of thumb is the width of the ring should be 1.5X diameter of the tree, but that is a lot of your trunk!
Not sure about tourniquet method, I have never used it on a trident, hopefully somebody with more experience can shed some light.
Good luck!

Hi there,

Do a search on the "toothpick" method. Works very well and won't mean you lose half the trunk.

Cheers,
Mo

thread grafting or approach grafting might be the best option, it will definitely be the least invasive in that if they dont take, you wont be left with huge scars down low

You can just remove patches of bark where you want new roots. I cut a narrow horizontal strip around 5-10 mm wide with the top of the cut at the level you want roots, treat with rooting hormone then cover it up to keep the area damp. Tridents love to grow new roots and this is usually enough to get roots started with trident maple. Just make sure you cut right down to the wood and try to scrape off most of the cambium that covers the wood under the bark.
Toothpick method is similar but just uses a series of individual holes to stimulate roots.
Wire embedded in a narrow ringbark strip also works well but you'd have to put it on just above the roots I think.

Will the horizontal strip method work on conifers shibui?

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Will the horizontal strip method work on conifers shibui?

Nowhere near as certain on species other than trident maple. That's when fitting a wire into the cut becomes important. The wire stops the cut healing over and forces the tree to put out some roots. It will depend on what conifer you are doing as well. Some, like juniper, root quite easily while pines are far more reluctant to put out roots.

shibui wrote:

Will the horizontal strip method work on conifers shibui?

Nowhere near as certain on species other than trident maple. That's when fitting a wire into the cut becomes important. The wire stops the cut healing over and forces the tree to put out some roots. It will depend on what conifer you are doing as well. Some, like juniper, root quite easily while pines are far more reluctant to put out roots.

Ok thanks. Quite a blanket question. Sorry....

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Thanks Shibui
I'm going to do that with the slit and the wire. Would now be a good time or should I wait for it to get a bit warmer. Thanks for all the responses .
Regards
Peterb