AusBonsai

Yesterday i was fortunate enough to purchase a sticky wattle from a fellow member. I'm quite taken with it already... Such a romantic looking tree.

Moving forward i hope to develop a second tier of weeping moving in a different direction. I understand growth can be guided by initially tilting the pot to create a new apex and then repotting it at the new angle further down the track.

I would like to repot this into a hexagonal or square tall bonsai pot. Could I slip pot it into one or should I wait until I have some more work underway on new directional growth?
Here's a few poor photos will post more shortly. Any tips of advice is welcomes and appreciated. Was so excited to welcome spring today with a couple of wattle flowers!

Deb


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A second and even third tier of growth is a very good idea. The easiest way is to wire a young shoot up, and cut everything else back hard, keeping them pinched to direct energy into the new tier. Will be a bit of a slow process, but if you're under 75, worth it. It can be a bit tricky - if your tiers go off in different directions, the tree loses its focus, but if they are too similar, one will shade the next, so it will need a bit of thought. (Get three, try everything!)

If you want strong growth to get a new head, don't think of putting it in a bonsai pot yet - big pot, lots of fertiliser, the usual. If you can't wait, then make what you can of the shape as it is - your choice. Usual repotting time is after flowering, be a little gentle with the roots, not too much off at a time. Replace the old soil gradually over time, a bit more with each repotting.

And have fun!

Gavin

Haha thanks for the advice! Im 22 so have plenty of time to develop this fantastic tree. What fertiliser should I be using for this tree? Native mix?

Does pinching back make the tree develop more ramification like with other bonsais?


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Oh and should i put it in a bigger pot?


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This shows the pot a bit better...


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Great start Djs19992 - a bigger pot ? - maybe, but not until weather warms right up. Suggest putting the tree out in full sun to "tighten up" internoding on branches. Also pruning to encourage higher shoots on branches, for interest & height, always easy to get length with this one, height takes more work.

Hi DJS,
You can safely repot after flowering and yes you can get an apex by the replanting angle and gently wiring up some young growth. Dont be too confident on bending though, your limb will snap clean off without warning. All sticky wattle owners have at sometime learnt this lesson.
The visual impact of the cascading foliage improves if you keep the branches clear of the pot rim and sides. Do this by removing inward pointing growth. If you gently lift a limb you will see that these are the downward pointing ones on a standard tree. Treat it the same and you will see your pot and clear the rim.
You do have a nice tree there but you need to bear in mind the bonsai basics. You need a front. You need to see that trunk. You need an apex. Thin out to give negative space.
Try to achieve 'Dragons Claw' branching. these trees are perfect for this. Just take a look at thet dragon Smaugs claws and you will get the idea. They naturaly send branching upward then curving downward.To encourage this selectivly remove branching from under upward and outward growing ones. Leaving the side growing ones helps the effect too. Apply this method all the way down each limb and you should after a few seasons be left with ramified claws all the way down. Try to get the 'claws' closer together the further you get to the end of the limb. Again exactly as you would want in a standard tree. Treat it the same.
I have seen many of these with huge masses of foliage with the trunk not visible at all.!!
Difficult to explain the method without seeing a demo of it being done.
Don't do all your pruning work in one hit. Do a portion at a time over a few weeks so as not to stress it out. Use cut paste. Only remove bottom 25% of roots and always try to over pot them. They need lots of space for dence root mass like azealeas. NEVER LET THEM DRY OUT. I have mine in summer in a dish of water always filled up to the drain hole. Slow release native fert in soil mix and seaweed based liquid watering. (low phosperous)
Always design with asymetry in mind.
Many varients on this method but I have success.

Have included a classic example to show what can be achieved. One to truely inspire all Howittii owners. Enjoy and good luck.

Very nice DJs, I am extremely jealous Have been wanting to get myself a howiitti for some time now, but just haven't found the right one

I think Alan has summed it up pretty well, and dropped a hobbit reference too, so I think its all covered Look forward to seeing where you go with it

Thanks so much for all the fantastic advice. I know there is much work to be done but I'm not ready to start cutting quite yet. I've been at university all day but finally got home so took a few more pics.

Firstly where I would eventually like to give a view of the trunk. I need to get some growth on the back side first i think.




And some picture of the back which I haven't posted previously.






On a side note my ipad incorrectly autocorrected the spelling of howittii so the title is misspelt. Is there any way to edit this?


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