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red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 6th, 2014, 3:54 pm
by shibui
This red pine was one of the trees presented for Hiro's critique on Friday night.
red pine cascade twisted left.JPG
I have grown it from a seedling and it has had several transformations but I've never been completely happy with the apex or the end of the cascading branch. The upper apex was recently thinned and reduced and still needs to be developed a little more.
Hiro's first comment was that semicascade trees should only have 1 head - either at the highest point OR the end of the cascading branch but not both.
My immediate inclination is to remove the upper part because I really like the final movement of the cascade branch and the upper head is not really elegant - lumps, taper, branch placement, etc.
To get a better idea of how it would look I've tried a couple of virts:
red pine cascade tilted forward no apex.jpg
red pine cascade tilted forward with apex.jpg
Hiro's other option would really please all the ausbonsai choppers - Remove the cascading branch completely and develop a smaller upright tree from the base and the existing upper apex :o

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 6th, 2014, 4:21 pm
by kez
A nice canvas and some good options. For me I would pick the lower apex as I feel the trunk line down to this point tells enough of a story and the upper and lower part of the tree are a little disconnected.

I think a beautiful tree could be built using the cascade

I'm sure a great tree will be made whatever you choose

Kerrin

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 6th, 2014, 4:23 pm
by Grant Bowie
I would also use the lower apex.

Are the roots OK for the trunk to be tipped a lot more vertically?

Grant

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 6th, 2014, 4:51 pm
by shibui
I'm sure a great tree will be made whatever you choose
Agreed Kez. I find the most difficult decisions are when both possibilities are good. I now work trees on the premise that if I cannot decide between 2 options then both must be equally good so it doesn't matter which I choose but the choice must be made - :2c: heads or tails :tu2:

One of Hiro's suggestions was to plant the tree further right ie closer to the centre of the pot.
There is at least 1 strong root on that side so it will remain to be seen if I can achieve better placement.
Are the roots OK for the trunk to be tipped a lot more vertically?
I'm not sure Grant. I haven't seen the roots for a few years but I'm almost certain it is now tilted further to the left than I originally planted it. How much further vertical would you suggest? and why?

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 6th, 2014, 5:11 pm
by Grant Bowie
Very vertical.

Just that I could see it in a tall, full cascade pot, apex at base of tree.

grant

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 6th, 2014, 7:23 pm
by CraigM
Personally would go with the first option, keep the lower apex and jin the top. Love the movement and bark texture.

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 6th, 2014, 9:16 pm
by anthonyW
Maybe stand this piece up,rotate anti-clockwise 90 degrees,bottom as top,maybe cascading some branches down in time,just a thought.
Anthony

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 6th, 2014, 10:41 pm
by DavidWilloughby
shibui wrote:I find the most difficult decisions are when both possibilities are good. I now work trees on the premise that if I cannot decide between 2 options then both must be equally good so it doesn't matter which I choose but the choice must be made
Hi Shibui,

I think you have already made up your mind, but need a little coercing, I say go with your gut. Lovely bit of material too.

Cheers

David

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 6th, 2014, 10:44 pm
by Webos
I think that this trees best asset is it's gnarly bark and the cascading branch best shows it off...

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 7th, 2014, 3:18 am
by Scott Roxburgh
I'd go the first option, cascade.

Whilst there isn't much taper in the cascading branch, as per Adam, the bark is too nice to chop off.

If you want a shohin red, I'm sure someone will swap one with you for that trunk.

Nice tree, I'm looking forward to the chop, whatever you decide.

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 7th, 2014, 12:21 pm
by Jason
shibui wrote:Hiro's other option would really please all the ausbonsai choppers - Remove the cascading branch completely and develop a smaller upright tree from the base and the existing upper apex :o
Don't do this :P haha

I like the first option also, seems to work a lot better, and feels more natural :)

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 7th, 2014, 12:50 pm
by Gerard
Nice to see a virt of the proposed potting angle with the upper head removed. Reposition the lower branches and you have a great tree :imo:

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 7th, 2014, 1:00 pm
by Matthew
I love this tree and keep trying to get Neil to sell it to me everytime im there :shifty: :shifty: my plan would be to remove/jin the branch/apex near the start of the trunk and build the tree with the lower end part. the movement in the trunk is VERY good especially in the flesh and should be highlighted :tu:

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 7th, 2014, 1:48 pm
by bodhidharma
Definitely no chopping Neil, that trunk is way to nice to lose. I know that our photography does no justice to our trees so that would make this trunk TWICE as good. Semi cascade for mine, a good wiring would open it up a bit and the rest is just time. A little jealous Neil :shake: as i dont have a Red pine :whistle:

Re: red pine - Hiro master class

Posted: July 7th, 2014, 1:50 pm
by kcpoole
Although I consider myself to be one of the "choppers" ( i like to find the smallest tree whithin), not in this case.
I do not believe cascades need or look better with an upper apex, so removing that is a given ( maybe small jin and shari though:lost: )
I would also remove the lower apex you have too and just work with foliage pads you have there.
I like grants idea of lowering it even more. but would like to see a pic of it more front on? Rotate the pot until the corner is forward and then sit it flat rather than on a wedge.

Ken