AusBonsai

This is a lilly pilly that I bought back in Oct 2012. It was ordinary nursery stock and in poor condition. Thought I should start a progression on it as it is starting to take shape. I was going to grow a new trunk but it wouldn't back bad where I needed it to and I had some issues with disease (it was not healthy when I bought it and took a bit to get back to health) so stripped it back and ended up going for a broom style as the trunk had no taper and would have had to be chop real low and regrow the entire trunk. 2 questions,
Can I totally defoliate this tree? I assume spring would be best if I can.
Do the leaves reduce in size?
I know that was technically 3 questions

Thanks
Josh

yes the leave reduce, but why do you want to defoliate?

usually only done to promote new flush of leaves to reduce them on a finished / styled tree.
this one needs a lot more development before worrying about leaf reduction.

Ken

Josh wrote:2 questions,
Can I totally defoliate this tree? I assume spring would be best if I can.
Do the leaves reduce in size?
I know that was technically 3 questions

Thanks
Josh

Hi Josh, technically yes you can totally defoliate them....they can be collected with just a bare trunk and are able to reshoot growth.
In my experience you don't really need to though as they are such vigorous growers, and partial defoliation makes more sense to me for the plants health.
Partial defoliation can be used when you are in the later stages of development. As once established, the foliage pads fill out quickly and can block light...they need constant attention really. Remove larger leaves when partially defoliating too, as this will help with reduction of leaf size...yes the leaves reduce well.
When in the earlier development stages selective pruning can be used if the plant is too dense and there is a lack of light and airflow etc. You can also cut leaves in half.
In earlier development stages I find the usual grow out and cut back technique helps establish taper and initial structure. As they have opposite leaves/growth, you can just cut back to a pair of leaves and the two buds will shoot giving you good basic structure (2x2).
As for timing etc, yeah spring is a good time. The first flush of growth once winter has passed...you need to let that growth harden off first though so that they plant can regain some energy. There are multiple growth periods throughout the year with these plants...prune when growth has hardened off.
You can still prune them in winter, but I prefer to just cut back at this time of year in Melb.(if required). Leaving viable growing tips and making sure there is still a good amount of leaves for photosynthesis...always considering energy balance throughout the entire tree when doing so.
Shohin is a little trickier in my opinion. Because this genus generally grow so vigorously you need to keep on top of the pinching/pruning of foliage pads, and still trying to keep a semblance of branch definition, not topiary.
Also, because you want the finest growth at the branch tips and taper along the entire branch length, you end up cutting back a lot to achieve this (ie as shohin they will out grow their profile relatively quickly).
And as usual with the smaller bonsai you don't have much space/room to get all that perfectly developed branch structure and taper of coarse to finer growth to fit into. So you have to make concessions to create the illusion of branches to some degree and there can be a fine line between success and failure.
They make great bonsai in all sizes and are special plants, I am just pointing out that they are high maintenance. On the other hand they can give you good results relatively quickly. I have two that I am growing and this info is based on my experience with them, but I still have much to learn so good luck Josh.
Cheers, Dario.
Tip...wire for shape when shoots are young/they are not as brittle as a tea tree, but once growth has lignified it is much harder to bend branches etc.

Good post Dario.

What is your view on Re-potting Lilly Pilly?

My understanding (from a Koreshoff book) is really any time that the foliage has hardened off?

I re-potted mine just the other day as it seemed to be the only time that it had actually slowed down!
They are prolific growers!

Josh. Re. Leaf reduction as the tree ramifies I think you will find the leaves will reduce dramatically.
Mine is now producing leaves around half the size or less than what it did when first purchased.
I too remove all larger leaves and this helps with ramification and the support of smaller more compact growth.

Boics wrote:

What is your view on Re-potting Lilly Pilly?

My understanding (from a Koreshoff book) is really any time that the foliage has hardened off?

Hi Boics, I have had mine for just under four years and have only repotted a couple of times. I prefer doing it in warmer months. Late sring is when I have done it when the buds are just starting to swell, as opposed to once growth has hardened off.
Having said that though if buds are starting to swell, growth will have also hardened off. I just prefer to do it when buds are starting to move. I make sure the plant is healthy and has been well fed in the months prior to repotting.
In Melb I would guess that you could repot at most times of the year if plant is obviously healthy and correct after care provided paying close attention to transpiration. But as you said there will most likely be a little more lag time for the plant to get going afterwards if it has been repotted in winter.
I have bare rooted them reducing overall root mass by up to 50%. But the roots that I left were not pruned (left growing tips). I did cut back thicker roots to areas that had smaller roots. But as I had no prior repotting experience with this genus and I had bare rooted the plant, I did not prune the remaining root tips.
I bare rooted it to get rid of the old soil mix as it started of as a nursery plant. Anyway, I suspect that they can take a lot of harsh treatment and bounce back as they are tough.
I have repotted since then but as I had replaced the old soil into a mix I was happy with, I left the inner soil alone (soil next to the trunk). I did remove soil from underneath and on the sides of the root ball and trim and tease all roots. Plant did not bat an eyelid.
Cheers, Dario.