AusBonsai

I've been eyeing this unlabeled Callistemon at the local big box for a while now. No label, no price, and no love - the sad life of a tree at one of these places. Well I walked in today and it was in the clearance corner marked at $10 USD , and I couldn't say no. It's a bit ugly right now, but I'm sure with a little love it will spring back to life just fine. Shown from three angles with a 32 ounce soda (that's about .9 liters) for size comparison.
The trunk has good character, but it's WAY too tall at the moment. Spring is coming on here and things are starting to push new growth, which I know is the recommended time for repotting these guys anyway, but should I trunk chop at the same time? Is it worth trying a layer or taking a cutting when I chop it? Any suggestions on where to chop? Any input would be most welcome. Thanks!

they Layer very easily, so you can make it for $5 if you take one off
Cut back when you root prune is my method

Ken

Looks like a "Western glory"

bodhidharma wrote:Looks like a "Western glory"

Thanks Bodhi, like I said there was no label so all I really know is that it's a Callistemon. I suppose flowers might help, but I don't know if I'll get those this year since it has been pretty neglected.

Ken, I think I probably will layer it. I'm impatient, so I really want to just chop it right now, but I know I'll be happier in the long run if I end up with a couple decent trees out of this instead of just one. Plus, I always feel bad throwing that much living tree away. I'll get the layer started and see how it goes.

Nice Bark!
I would root prune and low trunk chop at the same time.
Pesronally I wouldn't bother with a layer...but that is just me and not sure how readily available this species is for you in the US.
I would however take some cuttings from the apex and possibly also from the ends/tips of any thicker branches.
Try to get some thickness on the base of the apex cutting if at all possible?...not just a thin shoot but a couple of cm's diameter. May need to prune back the apex (long shoots) a little to be able to get a cutting with any girth at the base of the cutting.
Without seeing the top of the plant though, it may not be realistic to get an apex cutting with any thickness to it.
Cheers, Dario.

I decided to take some cuttings from this and chop the trunk.
I ended up with four cuttings in all, the smallest one is about 25 mm. Prepped following Pup's instructions except for one, I wanted to try some rooting hormone to see what happened. I'll post results as they come, hopefully soon. If they all grow, then I'll end up with five decent trees for my $10 investment - not bad at all!

Time for an update. In our last episode, this tree was mercilessly chopped and left for dead. Or at least that's how it felt at the time. So how has it fared?
Looks like I got my 5 for 1 deal. They all have new growth, some better than others, but it's been long enough that they should all make it. I haven't pulled them out to check roots yet, but a gentle tug gives resistance, so there is something down there holding them in.

Now to figure out what to do with them. The cuttings will just grow on for a season or two, but it's about time to make some decisions with the trunk. I think the decision is between picking a leader, changing the planting angle, and going for an informal upright, or hollowing the trunk and going for a squat and powerful shohin. The leaves are a bit large though, and I'm not sure how they'll reduce. Thoughts?

Here are some better photos of this callistemon. I've been waiting patiently to get some feedback since the site has been rocky the past little while.

The first one shows the trunk with nice, fissured bark, and the branch that would be the new leader if I choose that option.

This shot is from the top, and shows the size of the scar that would need healed over. I should have included some perspective - it's probably almost 3 cm across at that cut.

Looking up at the potential new leader.


So my real question is, how long will this take to heal up and look nice? I think I would prefer to use a new leader and grow this out as a larger tree, but I'm a bit concerned with the bark healing and matching character over that large wound. It will need to be made even larger too in order to make a smooth transition. I suppose I could train a new leader and hollow the trunk too, but I would prefer not to do that if I can get it to heal.

Please, share your thoughts and opinions! I would like to work on this soon, it's getting a bit overgrown at the moment!

I have a couple of Callisitimon that have large chops to heal.
this on e is an air layer, though you cannot see the chop very well. It is sloped down and away from the front now so cannot be seen.
viewtopic.php?f=142&t=12075&hilit=+riverview

I have a larger one carved out at the back that I will get a photo of for you.

Ken

So my real question is, how long will this take to heal up and look nice?

How long is a piece of string karl? the time for this to heal will depend on so much - how well you grow it, whether you allow free growth or restrict it, pot/ground, where you are, etc, etc.
My callistemons grow quite quickly and heal well. I found i had to keep widening the shari on my waterswept callistemon because it kept threatening to heal over.

I would make the sloping cut in the final position now then keep pumping feed and water into it and allow a bit of growth - note growth does not have to be one long shoot. Thickening depends on NUMBER OF LEAVES (or more importantly leaf area) not height of the shoot so even regularly pruned leaders that produce plenty of side shoots can cause effective thickening/ healing.
With rough bark like that one has the scar should be un noticeable soon after it does heal.

Also note that I have done trials and i am convinced that sealed cuts heal over far quicker than those left bare.

shibui wrote: Also note that I have done trials and i am convinced that sealed cuts heal over far quicker than those left bare.

I wil agree with that, but also add that I think they heal over cleaner than thos left bare.

Ken

Thanks for the advice guys. I've decided I do want to grow it taller, so it's nice to know they heal well. Hopefully I'll have time this week to wire up the new leader, carve a little to smooth the transition, and then seal it up. I'll post some photos when I get to it.

I think the larger tree is the way to go Karl. I would imagine it will flower, and probably red, so the flowers are quite large and bold. It would need a larger tree ro carry it off.

Well, I found/made some time to work on this today. The flat chop across the top was worked down so it will make a smoother transition and the cut sealed, and the new leader wired up with a bit of movement. I left some sacrifices near that junction to help with the transition, trimming them back just a bit so the tree knows which branch is the real leader. They will be removed when it's time. Unless they turn out to be useful, it will be awhile before I know for sure. I'm pretty happy about the work though, and I look forward to seeing where this grows. As fast as the growth has been already, this should be fun to watch.
Thanks again for all the advice on this one, guys!

I'm so glad I started this thread. It's really nice to see how far it's come in such a short time! I noticed this morning that the wire is cutting in after barely over a month, so I'll be taking that off and maybe rewiring in a few days.

And the cuttings are still powering on. It's been about four months since I started them, and I'm thinking about pulling one out and repotting to see how the roots look. It seems to no longer be happy in its pot. Tall sides are giving it too much shade I think. I am a bit worried about it being too soon, and too hot as it's summer here, and 40-50 C during the day, but like I said the tree has stopped growing as strongly as the others and even dropped a few leaves - no pests to be seen. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, and I'll post photos when I get to the work.

I may have to change my favorite species soon, these things respond so well to bonsai that they are pure fun to work with.