AusBonsai

Who here has taken cuttings, be it native or non natives and what h as been your success and what's been your failure?

I have had ok results with some hilli ficus, but majorly failed due to poor soil choice and possibly too young growth.These where attempted in summer, and part of the failure could be form the extreme heat here.

My best results was a few weeks back with Indian basil, using honey on woody cuttings.

G'day Asus,
I have had success with Lilly Pilly, Ficus and Casuarina cuttings. The LP's were done with rooting hormone, the Figs with nothing and the She-Oaks using honey.
You may find Pup's posts on Propagation by cuttings and Bottle Brush and honey interesting.
Regards,
Steven

I have looked at his threads, I'm just trying to get a list of what people have tried, when, what using and the success.

i have successfully taken cuttings of my figs (port jackson and benjamina) in spring. i used to use rooting hormone powder when i first started but have found that they root without it as well. i have also used the honey technique with success too.

i will try callistemon cuttings next growing season

Sucesses
Trident Maple, Chinse elms, Fig ( lots of types), JAde, Euro olive, Azalea, Hibiscus,

Failures
Japanes Maple,

Allhave been propogated ( or attempted) with Gel rooting hormone. Planted in a tray of 50/50 peat moss and Propagating sand
Place the tray in a perspex Box which is in filtered light Outside


Kne

Successes: elm, rosemary, cotoneaster, maples, wisteria, ginko biloba, juniper, Podrocarpus lawrenci, Thuja orientalis, Buddleia, azalea, lonicera, corokis cotoneaster, tsuga

Failures: 10% up to 50% of the cuttings, depending on the species.

I often get close to a 100% strike, though some may take a long time. I always use honey dressing for the cut ends - seems to work well for me, and I strike them in recycled plastic bottle propagators (great for the species that take ages).

The only real problem I have is with rot in the wood of some very large cuttings (wisteria wood has been a problem for me when in contact with damp soil mix - I'm trialing a variety of sealants, any suggestions?)

Jan

Last winter I got 100% strike on Pomegranates some of the wood was two years old. I just cut em and put em in my propagator with some bottom heat and in about 10 days to two weeks they had roots everywhere.

I had about 50% with Vitex agnus-castus using the same method. I did not have any rooting hormone at the time.

Last time I took cuttings was in the Spring of 2007. Put 35 Juniper Procumbens (not nana) cuttings in a propagator using Hormone rooting powder. Only six survive, growing well. I have since been informed that Autumn is the best time to start Juniper cuttings. What the heck they were free.

Ash

I think I may need Fozz to shaw me how to take cuttings, Iv'e had 100% failure on my cuttings

Thanks,
Mac

I just started a new batch. As soon as I have them, I will post results. Using 1000ppm IBA talc (the only strength I have right now) and bottom heat in a domed propagator. I have started: Quercus Ilex (don't expect this one to make it I just wanted to try), Malus 'prairie fire', Malus sargentiii', Punica granatum 'Evergreen's Red Dwarf', forsythia (unknown species), Pithecellobium flexicaule, Chaenomeles 'Evergreen's Not Minerva' and Prunus campanulata x incisa 'Okame'. So far all look good except the Q. Ilex.

That is a nice palette of species you are giving a go there MileHigh (sorry, I dont know your name)

I've had success with Shimpaku... no treatment actually. Clean cut, stuck em in into a random abandoned tray of soil I found and just chucked it under a trampoline

Of course... they were free and done in Autumn. Strike rate was around 30% though... I must have been very fortunate =)

Hey,

I've had success with cedars, cotoneasters, willow, sequoia, and failures with plenty.

I usually use hormone gel. I have found it important to not let them get too hot over summer. last summer as we all know was a killer, and only a few of the sequoias made it through.

Being relatively unknowledgeable, Id love to know the best times for both deciduous and evergreen cuttings.

I find that my deciduous cuttings do best when I take them late winterr, as buds are forming.

Any advice?

hey mile high,

i know this is a bit delayed but how did you go with your prunus and malus cuttings? did they strike?

i fluked some prunus mume cuttings by half heartedly stickign them in a pot of old soil and covering them with the top of a coke bottle.

i bought a propagation kit and am currently on my second try with cherry and peach and not having a great deal of luck. wont even talk about the luck i had with my pink hawthorn cuttings! haha

Hi folks, I have grown a lot of things from cuttings.

Success with:
Tridents, Zelkovas, Chinese Elms (all times and sizes), English Elm, Shimpaku, Procumbens Nana, Squamata, Pingii, Cedar of Lebanon, Atlas Cedar (November and March), Satsukis, Camellias, Chaenomeles, Serissa, Luma, Japanese Black Pine, Hinoki, European Beech, European Hornbeam, American Honbeam (thankyou Craigw60!), Korean Hornbeam, Ezo Spruce, Japanese and European Larch, Crab Apple etc, etc, etc.

Dissapointing results with:
Arakawa Maple, Japanese Maple, Dwarf Japanese Black Pine

Failures:
Blue Atlas Cedar, Cyprian Cedar.

Asus, in your hot and dry climate, hardwood cuttings might be the way to go, if you are going to grow cuttings when they are in leaf it is essential to have a cover on your propagator to keep humidity in. From a simple cut down Coke bottle to an expensive greenhouse, vegetative reproduction of plants is all about humidity

Cheers,
Mojo

Dont know if your still interested Ben but ive done heaps of natives. Maybe 60 different species. Ive done maybe 30 species of exotics and grown lots of natives from seed too. Anything in particular you need to know about?

Joel