AusBonsai

In regards to the discussion on this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11641&p=123018#p122833

and specifically my statement in that thread:

"While I am all for encouraging experimentation in any artform and absolutely agree that we should aim to be positive when assisting others less experienced than ourselves, the trend of watering down the "B" word to fit every plant in our local nursery or every free plant in our gardens does little to advantage anyone.

I and anyone of a dozen or more others on this forum could reel off 100 species that are very well suited to bonsaI yet for some reason are under utilised. I would love to see that rectified".

In keeping with my statement above, I ask those in the know at AusBonsai to offer 1or 2 plant species species (botanical names if known) up as "Bonsai Under-utilised" along with a little supporting evidence to make a case for the plant's suitability for bonsai. Ideally it would need to be either a species that you have grown yourself or that you have a fair bit of knowledge about.

As I hope this will evolve into a useable reference for AusBonsai members, please refrain from off topic debate on this thread. Replies to species suggested here should be adding to the information already available.

Cheers,
Mojo

I'll get the ball rolling.

Luma apiculata (Peruvian Myrtle)

Pros:
Readily available, inexpensive hedging plant, dwarf cultivars available.
Fast growing.
Very simple and predictable pattern of growth, responds well to pruning and backbuds readily.
Small fragrant foliage, leaves reduce well.
Attractive flowers in summer/autumn.
Attractive exfoliating bark.
Sun tolerant, cold hardy.
Propagates relatively easy from semi hardwood cuttings, airlayers are said to be possible at greater than 25mm diameter.
Some drought tolerance, shoots will wilt when the tree is becoming dehydrated and recover shortly after watering, despite this, any wilting in this manner calls for immediate watering as recovery can be very unreliable.
Garden Yamadori can be found.
Other than caterpillars, no significant pest problems noted.
Recommended for beginners and above.

Cons:
Thin bark, mature branches quite hard to bend, anything older than new shoots can break if care is not taken when wiring.
Pruning scars need to be trimmed flat with a sharp knife or scalpel, healing can be slow without sacrificial shoots at wound site to aid callous formation.
Large cuts below soil level are best sealed as they can lead to root rot.
Trunk and branches can be devoid of taper at times if left to grow inchecked, continual chopping and shoot regrowth will be necessary to build decent taper.
Reverse taper can occur if multiple opposite branches or overly heavy branches are allowed to remain for too long.
Trunk thickening can be slow.

Pics: https://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en& ... iAfdt-mcBg

And they can make nice bonsai

Personally Im giving a try at those species right now:

Breynia [ Snowbrush ]



Brunfelsia [ Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow ]




Mimosa Sensitiva/Prudica


Jacaranda

I'm also trying with
Pinus Elliottii [ Slash pine ]
Clerodendrum "light bulb"
Rosemary

Ilex serrata, Japanese winterberry. A species which is not easy to find in Australia but when it did appear at the recent BSV sales day (as starters) it remained unsold until I purhased 4 of them. Most likely that people did not appreciate what they can be.
They are vigorous growers and have a tendancy to produce suckers which makes clump style a popular option.
It is necessary to keep both male and female in order to cross pollinate and produce fruit on the female tree.
I have had success in propogating cuttings (but a poor pecentage because I do not do it well)
It displays best in autumn/winter when the berries are ripe. It is deciduous but I have defoliated mine a little bit early in the past in order to show the fruit.
I learned very quickly.....do not show the fruit to the birds.
(the photo is not my tree) (mine is currently in a grow pot in preparation for a restyle)

One of mine would be Adenanthos, it a member of the proteaceae family. It is much more readily adaptable to Bonsai as it shoots back on old wood it has soft pine like foliage.
That reduces well can be trained in just about all styles like full sun can take some shade, it is very well suited to miniature styles, as the wood does age quite quickly.

It is treated as you would a Banksia as for fertilising, but can be treated like a juniper as to repotting, except in the warmer months.


Cheers Pup

Gerard wrote:Ilex serrata, Japanese winterberry

Definitely at the top of the list Gerard!

Along the same lines...Callicarpa japonica, Japanese beautyberry. From my limited one year experience with them, Callicarpa has similar traits to Ilex serrata. I have also found it quite hard to find in larger sizes, so have bought starters. They seem to be a little less vigourous, but have the same 'shrubby' growth habit. I have not had berries, they are probably too young, but I don't think you need a male/female combo.

I haven't tried propagation, but assume cuttings, root cuttings, and layering would work.

I have grown them in the same inorganic mix.

My one Callicarpa has berries all the time haha And large leaves, but I have done now bonsai work to it. I am actually going to plant it into an even larger container to let it go nuts for a while.
My only Ilex was going really strong, and then just suddenly died.

Scott Roxburgh wrote:

Gerard wrote:Ilex serrata, Japanese winterberry

Definitely at the top of the list Gerard!

Along the same lines...Callicarpa japonica, Japanese beautyberry.

Steve_Dawson_Callicarpa.jpg

callicarpa_80.jpg

callicarpa.jpg

From my limited one year experience with them, Callicarpa has similar traits to Ilex serrata. I have also found it quite hard to find in larger sizes, so have bought starters. They seem to be a little less vigourous, but have the same 'shrubby' growth habit. I have not had berries, they are probably too young, but I don't think you need a male/female combo.

I haven't tried propagation, but assume cuttings, root cuttings, and layering would work.

I have grown them in the same inorganic mix.

Hi Scott, Beautyberry.....what a really appropriate common name that is. Thanks for sharing.

Cheers,
Mojo

Callicarpa should fruit very quickly from struck cuttings which are very easy. They are very slow to thicken and even slower to ramify.
Craigw

im going down to my nursery now to look for baeutyberry and ilex serrata for ground ground projects. love the first shohin pic of that beauty berry. Do they tolarate sun/heat well?

Matthew, I have customers who grow them in Melb. without any problems
Craigw

All my trees are in full sun with no direct afternoon sun, but I use overhead misting during really hot days. I would say part shade in the hottest part of the day.

Pup, the Adenanthos semi-cascade is very fine indeed - and pine-like foliage that back-buds! I'm definitely looking out for one. Some.

For me, Berberis and Prunus cerasifera - both tough as guts and give good trunks, interesting foliage, and flowers and even plums on the cerasifera if you remember to fertilise...

Berberis trunk, 13cms long, 4cms wide, I think it had a couple of years in the ground:
Cerasifera base, quite old:
Gavin

hoop pine - aruacaria cunninghamia (spelling)

I was told these would never make good bonsai, padding would never work etc. but with a little patience and some thought it is very possible. a native aswell!