AusBonsai

I have a JBP that I acquired some time ago, I have always been at a loss as to what to do with it so it just does its own thing in the garden. It has nice flair at the base but then rises into a long almost straight section before the first branch which is a long way up in relation to the overall height, taper also disappears past the first branch.

I was thinking about passing it along to another grower when I saw some potential. Carve the straight area creating a shari while also weakening it to allow me to bend it easier. Remove the section above the first branch & grow out again from there. There is another branch just next to the first & both have lots of growth close to the trunk. I have read lots over the years & also done more recent research but still have a couple of questions....

Can major work be conducted now without killing the tree?

Could I bend the lower trunk & set a layer on the upper half at the same time?

Thanks in advance.
Matt

Ps trunk diameter where I want to bend it is about 5cm.

Hi MattA ,can you post a pic of your pine in question . Cheers Alpine

Here you go bud.

Hi MattA , mate if i had a pine like that i most certainly would give your choices a go .If setting a layer make sure the lower branches will still feed the base .I made the mistake of not having enough branches below the layer and of course the layer grew and the base died . I have now lost 2 of the 4 for $40 trunk bases , however i did managed 16 layers and i still plan the layer another 2-3 off so they only cost a couple of dollars each .I have set layers on JBP at no set times and they work well , it may take a little longer than 3 months but definitely give it your best shot .

As for bending , i have bent one of those 4 for $40 trunks around 2 scooter rims without drilling the trunk out as per Grants post . They are quite flexable at around 40-50mm not by hand but with the aid of some contraptions , however they can and will snap at a whorl , hence the reason i have used ratchet straps to slowly bend it over time , still cranking 1 bend now . Allow them to dry out for a few days before bending of course this most certainly aids the flexing of the trunk rather than bending and that bloody OH BUGGER moment Pup often talks about .

All the best with it .Cheers Alpine

LOVE the tomato can! :lol can't see much of a nebari on it though....

Good luck with the bending and layering too! It looks like there's is some lovely potential there - i wish i had one lurking in the garden somewhere.

stew

Stew,
The nebari is buried under about 5cm of mulch in that pic. I would rather a few other genus over Pinus but its there to be played with so whats a bonsai nutter to do

Alpine,
Thanks for your input, I have seen your work with those pines, interesting to hear how your experiments have faired. I have no doubts about being able to bend the trunk by hand but felt I may as well carve it before to make life easier. Expect more questions from me in the near future about your ratchet methods, its about the only way I am going to be able to bend the trunk on one of my Wisteria (I need more turn in the ankle & upper leg).

I am still unsure if I will set a layer or not, time to go back to the tree & see whats really going on in the upper half & if it even has any potential.

Matt

Hi Matt , drop a Suzuki DRZ 400 on it , I guarantee you can rotate it 180 degree's split it down the middle and shatter ankle and lower leg . Seriously a rachet tie down works a treat for big bends and its quick and simple .

Cheers Alpine

I would have liked a bit more bend but the top hit ground so that will do for now.

Off to dig a shohin crabapple that is now buried under all that pine, if I wasn't keeping it to speed repair I would just lop it off. There is also a potentially nice twin trunk hiding at the top so....

Woah, didn't expect that Matt, are you going to bend the top back to the left or are you trying to kill that part off with the wire around the trunk some rubber tubing between the 2 may of been kinder , can't wait to see what you do next

Hi Matt , nice curve thats for sure . I would have used a piece of shade cloth over the trunk for a sling . If wide enough its allows the sap to continue to flow and also allows air to circulate around the bark . A small side branch like you have may not be enough to feed the roots you obviously have with a base that big .While i have seen some serious chop tops Monty's and Nigra's survive i have never seen a chop top JBP with a single side shoot .

The wire on the top side of the bend will ultimately stop the nutrient flow in both directions .A couple of pegs driven into the ground and a horizontal piece fixed across the trunk and to the pegs with a pad in between will allow the sap and nutrients to flow better, and still hold the bend you have placed on the trunk . The 2 x 40-50mm trunks i lost had numerous inarch grafts attached and still potted to their original roots , i would hate to see this mother go wheels up . Looking at it now i would postpone the layering and use the foliage from the top to aid the root mass then layer off next Spring . All the best with it .

Cheers Alpineart

Craig,
Good to keep you guessing I plan to remove the whole lot above the wire. Using some rubber tubing would have been kinder.

Alpine,
Now your starting to worry me, apart from the small upper branch there is another coming off at the same point at the back, will that be enough? Here's hoping...

I could redo it with rubber or a shadecloth sling but pegging it down wont work as the bed its in is too soft to hold them & the amount of tension in that bend. I ended up standing on the top to hold it down while I tied the wire off

My reasoning for not padding it was that as the wire cuts in it will divert that energy into my new leader, but, being a pine beginner I will have to wait & see how it fairs. My main worry was timing, now I am going to be checking it constantly to make sure I havent killed the lot with the wire

Matt