AusBonsai

Does anyone have a comparative analyis for Maidenwell Diatomite?
Couldn't find one on their website.
Just curious to do a side by side as I had heard someone was dismissing the use of Mt Sylvia Diatomite, due to its pH being ALKALINE. Anyone using Mt Sylvia Diatomite out there wishing to share there experiences please.

Mt Sylvia Diatomite

TYPICAL ANALYSIS
SILICON 81.6%
PHOSPHORUS .034%
POTASSIUM .059%
SULPHUR .092%
CALCIUM .686%
MAGNESIUM .704%
IRON 3.17%
ALUMINIUM 6.22%
TITANIUM .764%
SODIUM .117%
CARBON 1.93%

Unfortunately, Maidenwell has shut their doors once again. Other forum members may be able to elucidate more on if and when they will resume operations.

Aside from that, many forum members appear to be using the Mt Sylvia product without any noticeable issues with pH which were suggested initially. The Maidenwell product has a more aesthetically appealing properties though.

So the conclusions I guess are:

1. Unless you got access to Maidenwell product, you're stuck with using Mt Sylvia anyway

2. The Mt Sylvia product seems to work safely for trees anyhow.

Maidenwell PH 5.5
Mt Sylvia PH 6

Different colur but otherwise Mt Sylvia Diatomite works fine.
Grant

If Grant is right (and I have no reason to doubt it, I just haven't done pH tests myself) then BOTH are acid, not alkaline. 5.5 is actually fairly acidic. I did not realise the products were this acidic. Either way, 6 is definitely NOT too high a pH for growing any common bonsai species that I can think of.

Joel

good to know guys.... thanks so much for the quick and informed replies.

A pH of 6 is really not very acidic, given that neutral is 7.. SO Only a smidge on the acidic. I always use Mt Sylvia because it is accessible for me and it is also cheap. Works well. I literally grow everything in it. Pines, Junipers, Azaleas, Figs, Elms, Maples, Murrayas, Swampies, Crab apples. I haven't got any redwoods or camelias in i yet. Redwoods because they arrived in the mail in the middle of one week and I didn't have any diatomite, and camelias cause none have been repotted since I bought them, still in their nursery pots.
But that's the only reaosn. It is great stuff

NathanM wrote:A pH of 6 is really not very acidic, given that neutral is 7.. SO Only a smidge on the acidic.

My point was that it is a long way from being too alkaline for species commonly used as bonsai.

Joel

Joel wrote:

NathanM wrote:A pH of 6 is really not very acidic, given that neutral is 7.. SO Only a smidge on the acidic.

My point was that it is a long way from being too alkaline for species commonly used as bonsai.

Joel

And since we seem to be set on proving points, the member who posted the topic specifically asked for peoples experiences with the product. I gave mine.
Maybe next time I shouldn't?

NathanM wrote:A pH of 6 is really not very acidic, given that neutral is 7.. SO Only a smidge on the acidic. I always use Mt Sylvia because it is accessible for me and it is also cheap. Works well. I literally grow everything in it. Pines, Junipers, Azaleas, Figs, Elms, Maples, Murrayas, Swampies, Crab apples. I haven't got any redwoods or camelias in i yet. Redwoods because they arrived in the mail in the middle of one week and I didn't have any diatomite, and camelias cause none have been repotted since I bought them, still in their nursery pots.
But that's the only reaosn. It is great stuff

Good to know Nathan... Apart from the Pines, crab apples and camellias, I grow the same types of trees. Could you share your mix with me or are they all in 100% Diatomite? I see you're in Brissy.... what's your watering program. I'm only a couple of hours south in Byron. Could I also ask where you are sourcing your redwoods from?
Thanks for the re assuring info mate.

NathanM wrote:A pH of 6 is really not very acidic, given that neutral is 7.. SO Only a smidge on the acidic. I always use Mt Sylvia because it is accessible for me and it is also cheap. Works well. I literally grow everything in it. Pines, Junipers, Azaleas, Figs, Elms, Maples, Murrayas, Swampies, Crab apples. I haven't got any redwoods or camelias in i yet. Redwoods because they arrived in the mail in the middle of one week and I didn't have any diatomite, and camelias cause none have been repotted since I bought them, still in their nursery pots.
But that's the only reaosn. It is great stuff

Hi all and I agree with Natan herem 100%

I have all my trees ( except for azaleas) in my mix of 2/3 diatomite and 1/3 zeloite
the only reason I don not have azalaeas in it as i have tried them in Kanuma, and as result it outperforms anything else

Search for my diatomite test threads, and you will see why. I have been using it now, (Both Maidenwell when it was available) and now mt sylvia for at least 4 years.
Apart from the colour, they are interchangeable
If The Japanese had it, they woud be using it instead of Akadama.

Ken

NathanM wrote:

Joel wrote:

NathanM wrote:A pH of 6 is really not very acidic, given that neutral is 7.. SO Only a smidge on the acidic.

My point was that it is a long way from being too alkaline for species commonly used as bonsai.

Joel

And since we seem to be set on proving points, the member who posted the topic specifically asked for peoples experiences with the product. I gave mine.
Maybe next time I shouldn't?

No need to get defensive. I was merely ensuring that I communicated effectively as I know that can be a problem in a forum situation. Sorry if it came across offensive.

I must admit I forgot to give my experience. I used Maidenwell for a few years before it became unavailable. As soon as Ken Poole started his experiments way back in the bonsaitalk days, I went out to get my first bag. The Maidenwell was slightly smaller and darker in colour. Personally, I preferred it, mostly for aesthetic reasons. I use it as the main ingredient in my mix with all my trees. I can't think of a tree I would not be willing to use it on and have not heard of people having difficulties relating to a certain species.

As far as nutritional information, both are high in silica and not much else. Most of the silica is in a form not available to plants, but there is plenty there to increase cell wall strength and pest and diseases resistance. The purpose of diatomite is NOT nutrition. It's value is in its large particle size and ability to hold water. Without using something else with high C.E.C. you will need to fertilise very regularly. I use zeolite in my mix - roughly 1/3 diatomite to 1/3 zeolite - depending on the requirements of my trees and size of pot. The more diatomite, the more moist the mix will remain between waterings. The zeolite holds nutrients against the effects of leaching and retains them in a form easily up-taken by the roots of the tree.

Joel

kcpoole wrote:

NathanM wrote:A pH of 6 is really not very acidic, given that neutral is 7.. SO Only a smidge on the acidic. I always use Mt Sylvia because it is accessible for me and it is also cheap. Works well. I literally grow everything in it. Pines, Junipers, Azaleas, Figs, Elms, Maples, Murrayas, Swampies, Crab apples. I haven't got any redwoods or camelias in i yet. Redwoods because they arrived in the mail in the middle of one week and I didn't have any diatomite, and camelias cause none have been repotted since I bought them, still in their nursery pots.
But that's the only reaosn. It is great stuff

Hi all and I agree with Natan herem 100%

I have all my trees ( except for azaleas) in my mix of 2/3 diatomite and 1/3 zeloite
the only reason I don not have azalaeas in it as i have tried them in Kanuma, and as result it outperforms anything else

Search for my diatomite test threads, and you will see why. I have been using it now, (Both Maidenwell when it was available) and now mt sylvia for at least 4 years.
Apart from the colour, they are interchangeable
If The Japanese had it, they woud be using it instead of Akadama.

Ken

Ken am I likely to get zeolite and kanuma from the same place I got my Diatomite. It's a rural produce supply.

shanemartin wrote:

NathanM wrote:A pH of 6 is really not very acidic, given that neutral is 7.. SO Only a smidge on the acidic. I always use Mt Sylvia because it is accessible for me and it is also cheap. Works well. I literally grow everything in it. Pines, Junipers, Azaleas, Figs, Elms, Maples, Murrayas, Swampies, Crab apples. I haven't got any redwoods or camelias in i yet. Redwoods because they arrived in the mail in the middle of one week and I didn't have any diatomite, and camelias cause none have been repotted since I bought them, still in their nursery pots.
But that's the only reaosn. It is great stuff

Good to know Nathan... Apart from the Pines, crab apples and camellias, I grow the same types of trees. Could you share your mix with me or are they all in 100% Diatomite? I see you're in Brissy.... what's your watering program. I'm only a couple of hours south in Byron. Could I also ask where you are sourcing your redwoods from?
Thanks for the re assuring info mate.

My mix is currently 50-70% diatomite and the rest premium potting mix i will start trialling 100% diatomoite on some things very soon I think.
Watering - I check everyday and water as required. At the moment I am watering most days.
I got my redwoods from a member here alpineart is his username. I need to start wiring the soon. I have only done one at the moment.
Planning a trip to Byron sometime soon

Hi all,

From a short time growing experience and some annecdotal stories I believe you should blend your potting mix with Diatomite no matter where you live in Oz.

The best percentage of Diatomite to use will depend on where you live and the other components you are using in your mix.

However a rule of thumb might be to use a higher percentage of Diatomite if you live in cool or cold climate or in areas of average to high humidity.

Use much lower percentage if you live away from the coast and in very dry(lack of humiidity) and hot climate.

Grant

kcpoole wrote:If The Japanese had it, they would be using it instead of Akadama.

I can't say I agree with that statement. Diatomite is more like pumice.

Akadama has a number of very good properties that are often overlooked, one being temperature moderation. Roots grow at around 20 - 25 degrees celcius, keeping the rootball around this temp will increase strength in the tree.

Akadama is not a solid piece of clay. There are little air bubbles inside the clay, when akadama is heated, it tends to retain it’s average temperature for longer periods of time than say pumice. Removing the temp swings from day/night fluctuations, grows roots better.

Have a look into pumice as a replacement for diatomite too, it is good stuff.