My Trident Maple

[Ashleypaine90]

I should probably clarify that I'm not particularly looking for a thicker trunk as with age I'm sure the trunk will grow nice character anyway, just unsure about the canopy and growing it out, am I better pruning it back or letting it grow wild and then pruning to shape?

Ash


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[hawkeyes]

Join a local Bonsai Club, with expert advice from seeing the tree from each perspective, you will get well informed advice.

[kcpoole]

I should probably clarify that I'm not particularly looking for a thicker trunk as with age I'm sure the trunk will grow nice character anyway, just unsure about the canopy and growing it out, am I better pruning it back or letting it grow wild and then pruning to shape?

Ash


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Ok if not after trunk thickening, then leave in a pot to control growth and provide easier access.
I do not let maples extend too much as they get long internodes.

Select your pimary branches, and let then to extend a little ( about to the eventual desired lenght), then cut back to just outside a node about 1/3 the eventual length. You will get 2 shoots from that node and let them extend to about 3 sets of leaves then cut again. Rinse and repeat for every branch over the entire tree and you will build ramification in each branch, Wire them before they lignify and set in place as maples can be brittle.

Ken

[Ashleypaine90]

Awesome ken thank you so much for your help that clarifies so much, is there a best time to do this? Or any time throughout the year?
Thank you again
Ash


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[kcpoole]

As often as and when the tree needs it really.
You trim and prune all thru the summer while trees are growing. The early spring growth is vigorous, but later on it will slow down.

the tree will tell you when as you judge by the length of the internodes and the length of each branchlet.
I also apply wire if needed to direct the newish growth but do not apply tightly as it will cut in quickly while the tree growing. Wire is best to apply in winter but if careful you can do in spring summer to direct new growth

ken

[Ashleypaine90]

Hey guys,
So I've done a little pruning today, nothing too drastic but there were a couple of long shoots that were overlapped but not really growing from the other side of the branch so I've cut them back. I've also defoliated a few branches were there was a lot of overcrowding causing some leaves to get no light, at the end of some shoots it just seems to cluster, don't know if that's the word but at the end it shoots lots of leaves out all over the place. Take a look at the pictures, advice is always appreciated.
Thanks


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[Ashleypaine90]

Ow and to clarify the little bit of wiring was just to straighten out some branches that were growing up and touching the branch above


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[shibui]

at the end of some shoots it just seems to cluster,

After pruning, maples often shoot lots of new buds at the nodes. I assume that's what you are talking about. Lots of shoots growing from the same place can cause that area to thicken and you will inevitably end up with lumpy places - reverse taper - that looks bad. Always remove excess shoots as soon as possible to preserve good taper. Japanese maples are even more prone to this and need to be watched even more but it is also important to trim tridents properly.

When developing ramification on maples I allow the shoots to grow to about 4-6 pairs of leaves then cut back to leave just 1 or 2 pairs of leaves. New buds should form at the nodes you have left. Allow them to grow 4-6 pairs of leaves then cut back again. Keep repeating as often as the tree grows until desired ramification is achieved.
Ken mentioned long internodes. If the first internodes on a shoot are long do not hesitate to cut it back near the base. Usually the new shoots that grow will have shorter internodes that are much better to form the branches. Branches with long, straight, bare patches look terrible so they do need to be removed even though you may feel like you are going backwards. The end result is well worth the short delay.

[Ashleypaine90]

Thank you for your help shibui, yes that was what I was talking about developing ramification is my main priority, I'm really happy with the trunk and shape of the tree, just want to aim to fill it out to have that nice canopy/blanket of healthy leaves, looking forward to those autumn colours
Thanks again


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[Ashleypaine90]

Little update this morning, I've got new buds at pretty much all of the nodes where I pruned back to yesterday, that was quick.... I guess this is a good sign the tree is happy and healthy


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[Ryceman3]

Saw the pic below recently and it reminded me of your tree. Not saying it is perfect and you should copy it as it definitely has a few flaws, but might give you some inspiration or direction ...

[Ashleypaine90]

Thank you so much ryceman, I've been looking for something like this, when you say flaws, could you point out to me what you mean? As I'm learning I just look at that and think it looks great. Is it the extra thickness half way up (thicker than the trunk part below)? Thanks again


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[Ryceman3]

These are only a few of the things that I see - I know a more experienced person will see plenty more ...

The red circled areas show reverse taper where multiple branches are coming from the same spot in the trunk. This causes thickening at that section as is generally undesirable.

The pink arrows show a section of trunk that lacks any real movement and has no taper (thick to thin from bottom to top). You need taper and/or movement as this helps with scale and dimension for your trees. Without it, they seem a bit static and lack interest ... plus they help to create the illusion of "size" (scale) for the viewer.

The yellow line shows a branch which for me sits awkwardly with the trunk and probably should have been positioned better initially (it's too vertical at the point it leaves the trunk). The lower section of this branch also lacks movement and taper.

What I do like about this tree is the proportions between the trunk and the branching, I think it makes for an elegant trident and I haven't seen an enormous number done like this. I like the way the trunk extends quite a way before the branching begins and I also like the shape of the canopy and I think it works well with a tree in this style.

Anyhow, all of that is just my opinion - and it is not a definitive statement by an expert so you can take from it whatever you like (if anything at all!!)

[Ashleypaine90]

Wow thank you for your response ryceman, I've learnt a lot from your post, I've been scratching my head over this "reverse taper" "taper" etc. this clarifies a lot. So how would you go about stopping multiple branches from the same point, do you just prune them back whenever they try to grow? And do you see anywhere that requires attention now in my tree?
Again thank you so much for your help and time
Ash


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[Steven]

Hi Ashley,

Please post your images as attachments, not embedded in the message as they are huge and won't display properly on some screens.

See this link for how to do this from a PC viewtopic.php?f=97&t=54 or change your settings if you are using Tapatalk on a mobile device.

Thanks.

Steven