Maple tree what's next?

[PeachSlices]

What a nice progression. Can't wait for the next 4 year pictures. Really nice development.

Simon

[SmokeyKilla]

Personally i would plant it in the ground for a few years to thicken up the trunk and allow the tree to develop. Yes you can make a bonsai very quickly but to refine and turn it into a quality specimen takes years. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... e=emb_logo

[pureheart]

Thank you all!

[pureheart]

Personally i would plant it in the ground for a few years to thicken up the trunk and allow the tree to develop. Yes you can make a bonsai very quickly but to refine and turn it into a quality specimen takes years. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... e=emb_logo

Thanks but trunk size is not what attracts me to Bonsai, this tree is at the correct trunk size for his own selected pot.
Yes I agree it takes years and in fact it never ends the refinement of a tree, as it continually evolves and changes.

To be honest I don't like the tree in the video ( and it has that ugly S trunk ), move-over I may argue my tree show already more ramification.

[TimS]

Ground growing and trunk chopping Japanese Maple is the quickest way to make ugly trees. The scars will look horrendous forever because their bark is so thin it can never be hidden by mature bark the way a pine can.

Slow grown with a more slender trunk but scarless with forever be a better bonsai than a thick trunk covered in scars. The only thing to do in that case is carve the scars out into deadwood. Peter Chan’s maples are scarred to all get out from big trunk chops. The overall size makes them appear impressive, but there is no hiding the scars in winter.

I’d continue as you are. Work on a flat radial root base and over time the pot growing will naturally give you a very nice flare at the base

[Ryceman3]

There's a lot to like about this maple I reckon. I actually like the second pic in your latest thread entry as the front, but both look pretty good - it's a nice dilemma to have and it will only get better from here.

[pureheart]

There's a lot to like about this maple I reckon. I actually like the second pic in your latest thread entry as the front, but both look pretty good - it's a nice dilemma to have and it will only get better from here.

Thank you and yes I posted both front and back to get an opinion... I too decided that the front is the one in the second pic

[pureheart]

Ground growing and trunk chopping Japanese Maple is the quickest way to make ugly trees. The scars will look horrendous forever because their bark is so thin it can never be hidden by mature bark the way a pine can.

Slow grown with a more slender trunk but scarless with forever be a better bonsai than a thick trunk covered in scars. The only thing to do in that case is carve the scars out into deadwood. Peter Chan’s maples are scarred to all get out from big trunk chops. The overall size makes them appear impressive, but there is no hiding the scars in winter.

I’d continue as you are. Work on a flat radial root base and over time the pot growing will naturally give you a very nice flare at the base

Thanks I'm doing the best I can to get some nice base... hopefully I'm doing all the right things...this year for the first time I've planted it in pure Akadama (with a touch a orchiata pine bark) we will see in 2 years or so how the roots look like!

[Alexa]

Hey pureheart..

How do you get these massive hi res pics to post?..

Sorry i'm a newb here.

[pureheart]

Hey pureheart..

How do you get these massive hi res pics to post?..

Sorry i'm a newb here.

Always happy to help , nothing special really, I use the Tapatalk app on my iPhone mainly to write and post photos. When you use the app it automatically converts the photo I think to 1080p.

[Pearcy001]

I actually like the first front (tilted a little further even), as the second shows branches coming out toward the viewer quite low. From what I can see there's three sets of bar branches that if left unchecked, could result in reverse taper. Personally I'd consider removing one at each opposing junction before the damage is caused, but no harm in monitoring for now. Be careful with opposing branches, as it's hard to correct the resulting swelling without making a large scar. Goodluck with the trees.

Cheers,
Pearcy.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

[pureheart]

I actually like the first front (tilted a little further even), as the second shows branches coming out toward the viewer quite low. From what I can see there's three sets of bar branches that if left unchecked, could result in reverse taper. Personally I'd consider removing one at each opposing junction before the damage is caused, but no harm in monitoring for now. Be careful with opposing branches, as it's hard to correct the resulting swelling without making a large scar. Goodluck with the trees.

Cheers,
Pearcy.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Oh yes I see, thank you so much for pointing that out I was not looking at that but yes of course I think a chop is needed then... I will remove as highlighted in black but try first to get a long shot from the top branches before cutting so to try a graft where I highlighted on blue... what do you think?



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