New Chinese elm

[Theodore]

Great minds think alike Shibui


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[Pearcy001]

Thanks for the info guys!

Bugger Theo beat me to it

Hahahaha I can now picture you sitting over your keyboard, eyes glued to the screen with your fingers already on the keys ready to type.

Second isn't good enough Neil!

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[Homer911]

Maybe yellow leaves are normal for this time of year. It is May. All my Chinese elms are turning yellow and losing the leaves as normal for this time of year.

I can't imagine how you can put too much water in this layer. Excess water usually just drains out the bottom of the plastic where it is tied around the trunk.

I have read some where that a wet layer is no good. I thought the spagnum should be moist not soggy?

Thats good to hear that the top of the tree could be still be struggling on but just stressed. If thats the case its really far behind the lower section because the lower section is still shooting everywhere.





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[Homer911]

Hey Guys. Im looking for some inspiration on my elm. Have a look at the video and let me know what you think.

https://youtu.be/P88FAtjNPGg

[wrcmad]

Hey Guys. Im looking for some inspiration on my elm. Have a look at the video and let me know what you think.

Nice trunk Homer! And nice nebari too.
This tree has the potential to be a great tree, so my first suggestion would be don't "settle", and don't take short cuts, or the result will be a good tree, not a great tree.
Being a Chinese Elm, it is easy to achieve what you already know it needs.

Cutting the branches back and regrowing is neccessary . You also need more branches too, as you already realise.
These both can be easily achieved without setting you back 3 or 4 years. This is a Chinese elm, and they grow like weeds. It may also save you the time and effort needed to graft.

If it were mine (and I have done this to a similar sized Chinese elm) I'd start feeding now - bud swell for this species in my part of the world is due in about 2 weeks and you want it to go gang busters. In 2 weeks, I'd give it a light hair cut on top and repot into the same growing pot. Root prune would be medium, concentrating on removing the largest unwanted roots that run deep into that pot (you can start developing the root ball now).

Once the new shoots are a couple of inches long (maybe a few weeks after bud-burst) this would indicate the tree is recovering well, has gained strength, and sap is flowing well. At this point, I'd remove every unwanted branch, carry out your desired carving, and cut any remaining branches including those lower sparse branches back to no longer than 1 inch stubs. The tree will now be bare, but in no time should burst with numerous buds all over the trunk, and on the branch stubs. Now you can select the buds for the new branches, and start building a branch frame-work. Keep feeding furiously for the remainder of the growing season, and you will be surprised what can be achieved.

Look at the bottom pic in this particular post to see what can be achieved from a branch stub using this method in only 18 months. You will probably find it will take longer to develop the root system down to an appropriate sized root ball than it will to develop the top:

viewtopic.php?f=104&t=19164&hilit=Negle ... 15#p216210

[Homer911]

Cheers WRC. Appriciate the time you spent in your response.

I was expecting this type of reply. I think you are right that I know what is required and I would be settling if I didn't cut back hard now.

To be honest I am a little inexperienced with development of bonsai, especially of this age.

I was just hoping someone would chime in to say it would work how it is. He he he..... I suppose it depends on what everyone is looking for in their trees.

I have read your neglected chinese elm post. Great tree by the way, really nice work. It does show what can be achieved in a year or so.

I was thinking of repotting within the next week or so. I wasnt sure if i should repot into a shallower pot or keep it in the current deep pot to allow rapid growth??




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[wrcmad]

I was thinking of repotting within the next week or so. I wasnt sure if i should repot into a shallower pot or keep it in the current deep pot to allow rapid growth?

I'd keep it in the deep pot for rapid growth, and faster development.
Be aware that once this tree takes off, trimming/wiring/pinching of branches will be a weekly neccessity during the growing season to keep it from running away. Remember, a good tree does not have thick branches - thick branches make a tree look younger. Thinner, tapered and ramified branches are more desirable.

[Homer911]

Yeah was thinking the same. It will allow it to grow much quicker. ..... I think!

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[Homer911]

Would I be able to use those lower branches as cuttings now? Or are they too big?

[wrcmad]

Would I be able to use those lower branches as cuttings now? Or are they too big?

Not sure - I have never tried elm cuttings that thick. I have never bothered because you could grow new-growth cuttings to that thickness in 6 months or less.
I'd guess they would struggle if you took them now.... too cold ATM.

[Homer911]

OK wrcmad!! I've only gone and hacked it back to just a trunk and repotted it. I have also removed the air layer and planted that up. I couldn't get the moss off so planted it together.

I also did a bit of carving today, great weather today here in Sydney.

Let's just sit back and see how it performs this growing season.

[Kevin]

Hello Homer,

Good Luck.
She'll be sprouting very shortly with our weather and good rains tonight apparently.
Keep us posted please.

Kevin

[wrcmad]

Wow. That was quick!
Please keep us posted - I am very interested to see how this tree reacts over the coming month or two.
Guess you were in a hurry? What happened to the bud-burst - light trim - root prune - recovery bit?

[Homer911]

Yeah, I am a little early with the repot but I will be away for a couple of weeks and I have a lot to repot. I don't think it will struggle too much being reported this early even though it is still a little cold in Sydney at the moment.

It is in very free draining mix ( pumice, zeolite, diatomite, pine bark) so shouldn't be kept too moist. The air layer on the other hand may be an issue due to not being able to remove most of the sphagnum moss.

Some of my trees have sprouted a leaf or two ( mostly cuttings) but that's it, still no activity on most of them. Apart from this maple, very confused.

[Homer911]

So its been 4 years since my last confession....

A bit disappointing with the progress mainly due to neglect and moving house 3 times. This is only one of two trees that I kept when I moved up to the northern rivers, nsw.

Hopefully, in a couple of years it will have better ramification.

I actually changed the front of the tree because the branching had a better structure and the nebari is more interesting and bigger. But unfortunately, it has the cut wound and carving on this side. I thought it would be covered most of the time anyway. I may change my mind on the next repot.

First time its been in a bonsai pot. Not the greatest of pots but will do until she is more ramified.

I placed empty pots at the bottom of the container to increase air flow and to reduce the weight. She has big bones.!

The fist photo is before I worked on the tree and it was semi defoliated to see what I was doing.









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