AusBonsai

Shadehouse rage = when the dynamic lifter really hits the fan palm...

Rather unfortunate that this post starts a new page, suggest that if people don't understand they should read back a bit...

Gday Bodhi & Co!

Just thought you might be interested in this: it is a layer I removed from an Angophora floribunda some months ago (maybe even a year ). I had noticed that our new puppy had dislodged it somewhat in its soil, so I thought I should have a look at what was going on beneath the soil. What I found was kinda interesting and really ugly...
When I removed the layer so that I could get on with the parent tree, the layer site was covered in knobbly proto-roots, but I took a chance that they would take. However, I think my soil mix had too much fine organic material (chopped sphagnum ) and the soil had become water-repellent. As you can see, the tree has survived all of this time without forming roots! It is even putting on new growth!

I have repotted into a better-drained mix, given it a soak with Seasol, and am crossing my fingers...

Thanks.

Fly.

Thanks for the info Fly and i hope it survives. I have not redone mine but will keep an update.

G'day all
Great thread. Eucs can be difficult, but a Fly has shown, layering is possible - so good luck bodhi.

Just a thought: excuse me if I'm just writing what you already know. It occurred to me that some might not know, based on what has been said. The reason the bark is removed in air-layering is to cut off the flow of nutrients and growth modifiers moving from the leaves down to the roots. By cutting through the cambium and 'living' bark, you have cut the supply tubes that move things 'downwards' in the stem. when you apply a tight wire around the trunk/branch, you can squeeze the 'down pipes' enough that the same result is achieved. Putting the wire on the exposed wood would not have the same effect at all. Also, by cutting and removing enought cambium, you are stopping the cells that actually do the growing to 'heal' the wound. You don't want to damage the underlying sap wood, however. This is where the water and nutrients picked up by the roots are moved upwards towards the leaves. If you cut that supply line, the leaves suffer and may die. So 'just deep enough' is something to aim for.

I'm really interested in seeing your results bodhi. Good luck.

Why I mentioned wrapping wire around the bare wood section Roger, was to stop - or hinder the callous forming and eventually filling the whole ring-barked area as happened with Bodhi's tree. It wasn't meant to be wound so tight as to interfere with the Xylem layer - just to create a physical barrier against callousing over.

Roger wrote:So 'just deep enough' is something to aim for.

Gday Mr Roger!

I couldn't agree more! "Just deep enough" is exactly the optimal depth when cutting bark for a layer. From what I have read and experienced, "just deep enough" is the point where the cambium disects the phloem and the xylem.

Thanks.

Fly.

You had a great explination of how and why the air layer works on here some where Fly. Any chance of linking it for us

Bretts wrote:You had a great explination of how and why the air layer works on here some where Fly. Any chance of linking it for us

Gday Brettles!

I think the post you're looking for is HERE. While my own explanation may not be so clear, there are some good links regarding the how & why of air layering.

Stay tuned - I'll be removing yet another River Red layer in the next week or so...

Thanks.

Fly.

After careful consideration(and a couple of bourbons) and studying Peter Chans Aerial layering advice (again) Bonsai Masterclass is the book, a most worthwhile read . I am going to apply a sliver ring bark leaving four live strips or slivers for the flow of nutrients. We will see how successful this application is on our eucs. I will post a blow by blow and the end result. this will happen today.

Hey Bodhi

Plenty of good advice there. I would put the new layer up near what looks like nodes on the first pic, and cut through like suggested. I think you should take the whole ring of bark as it will probably just grow over.

Tony

Sorry Tony.. to late but, i feel we have to try new stuff and i am willing to put my neck on the block for success or failure to further our progress of Aussie Natives. We all have seen Aerials done before and this is not new. We have had excellent explanations from the likes of Fly and Pup on Aussie Natives. This is my record of how a sliver layer goes on a Euc. Please feel free to comment on depth and width and application on this technique for the benefit of people who are considering going in the same direction. A four layer bridge was out of the question because of the last failed layer so i settled for two bridges.