AusBonsai

Last question from me.

You said you wished that your approach graft was a thread graft....

Why not use one of the 3 seedlings/whips that you used for the roots and suspend a pot in location?
I can only assume these 3 were not the same species? If not what were they?

Naimul wrote:couldn't you have used some of the roots that you cut off to graft into the base instead of using the seedlings?

The chances of getting cut roots to take in a graft are very slim compared to this method which is almost guaranteed to work.

Boics wrote:Epic thread Treeman!

Thanks for the effort here it is much appreciated.

Just to be clear re. the root grafts.
1. You have drilled horizontally right through the trunk with the exit holes targeted where you want more roots.
2. Inserted your whips into the holes with roots at the appropriate location.
3. Sealed the exit points.

I believe this is what I see and you have shown but it did admittedly take me a while.

Thanks Boics. Not much effort once I learned to resize the damn pictures! Now for me THAT was an effort!!
Your 3 points above are correct. Some of the pics were not that clear, sorry..but I could not retake them after it was potted. Sometimes you just assume the photo will be good until you see it on the screen when its to late.
I'll try to do better next time

kcpoole wrote:

Boics wrote:Epic thread Treeman!

Thanks for the effort here it is much appreciated.

Just to be clear re. the root grafts.
1. You have drilled horizontally right through the trunk with the exit holes targeted where you want more roots.
2. Inserted your whips into the holes with roots at the appropriate location.
3. Sealed the exit points.

I believe this is what I see and you have shown but it did admittedly take me a while.

that is the method I have used on Tridents as well. Ony thing is the holes are drilled lees then horizontal so the exit hole is a little higher than the entry.

Ken

Yes you must get the angle of the roots the same as the existing ones as much as possible

Boics wrote:Last question from me.

You said you wished that your approach graft was a thread graft....

Why not use one of the 3 seedlings/whips that you used for the roots and suspend a pot in location?
I can only assume these 3 were not the same species? If not what were they?

They are the same species but this variety has brilliant pink spring growth (check ''Bonfire'' on the web to see) therefore It was my only option as its the only one I have. I have exactly the same problem to solve with my cork bark A. palmatum which was layered around the same time. If I wanted to add roots to this one though, I would have to use cuttings from the same tree because the roots also produce the very rough bark as well as the branches. (if that makes sense)

Hi all,

A series of excellent posts here; very useful to me since I am into maples. I bought a book on Japanese maples by Peter Adams from Amazon and between the book and these posts I think I am set for the coming spring . Thanks for that.

Cheers,

Brad Jackson.

treeman wrote:...I have exactly the same problem to solve with my cork bark A. palmatum which was layered around the same time. If I wanted to add roots to this one though, I would have to use cuttings from the same tree because the roots also produce the very rough bark as well as the branches.

I think we need a post on this one too would love to see some bonsai Arakawa maple!

I took cuttings a couple of years ago and am itching for the bark to start roughing up!

Scott Roxburgh wrote:

I think we need a post on this one too would love to see some bonsai Arakawa maple!

I took cuttings a couple of years ago and am itching for the bark to start roughing up!

Excellent! I have taken quite a few cuttings last summer as well. They strike quite well don't they?! Much easier than some other kinds.
My older one was also missing a back branch (and others besides!) It has a long way to go compared to the above and it's rather small but the bark is coming along nicely. I'll take a pic of it at some stage. I love this variety but they are a bit hard to ramify. Your cuttings will start showing bark in about their 3rd year! Its quite strange. It starts as little warts on the stem here and there and they just increase every year until they all meet and then the real ''bark'' starts developing.

Boics wrote:
Just to be clear re. the root grafts.
1. You have drilled horizontally right through the trunk with the exit holes targeted where you want more roots.

Boics,

I think this is wrong, although it may have been what was done. My understanding is that you always drill from the side where the graft will remain to the side that will be cut away. The reason being that an entry wound caused by the drill bit is always cleaner than an exit wound which may tear the cambium. In this case, the safest way would be to mar the point where you want your root, and drill from there upwards at a slight angle to the exit point where the scion will extend out of the trunk and eventually be cut off, or potentially be used as a sacrifice branch.

Cheers,

Andrew

Yep.

This is how I would approach it Andrew.

I was not being specific with my use and orientation of the word "exit".

Your description will no doubt be helpful.

P.S. Thanks for your responses Treeman!

Andrew Legg wrote:

I think this is wrong, although it may have been what was done. My understanding is that you always drill from the side where the graft will remain to the side that will be cut away. The reason being that an entry wound caused by the drill bit is always cleaner than an exit wound which may tear the cambium. In this case, the safest way would be to mar the point where you want your root, and drill from there upwards at a slight angle to the exit point where the scion will extend out of the trunk and eventually be cut off, or potentially be used as a sacrifice branch.

Yes Andrew that is correct. Sorry for the ''clear as mud'' explanation. You always drill from where you want the new roots (or branches) to emerge. Not the other way round. In other words the the entry for the drill is the exit for the the seedling.
I think I may have confused the issue even more.

treeman wrote:

Andrew Legg wrote:

I think this is wrong, although it may have been what was done. My understanding is that you always drill from the side where the graft will remain to the side that will be cut away. The reason being that an entry wound caused by the drill bit is always cleaner than an exit wound which may tear the cambium. In this case, the safest way would be to mar the point where you want your root, and drill from there upwards at a slight angle to the exit point where the scion will extend out of the trunk and eventually be cut off, or potentially be used as a sacrifice branch.

Yes Andrew that is correct. Sorry for the ''clear as mud'' explanation. You always drill from where you want the new roots (or branches) to emerge. Not the other way round. In other words the the entry for the drill is the exit for the the seedling.
I think I may have confused the issue even more.

Perhaps "put the drill bit on the spot you want to keep, drill towards the bit you want to cut off"?

Ok so it's one year on...already!
Here's the tree after the leaves have fallen and the grafts cut back
The approach graft succeeded. The small twig coming from it died but the main branch is strong and has fused well.
I will leave it attached to the mother branch for another year just to be sure.
The back of the tree where the 3 root grafts where cut off
The low branch/second trunk was too big in my opinion so I decided to reduce it.
Shortened
Arranged with some wire
The tree with most branches shortened and re-wired
The new roots. All 3 have fused well
My collection of pots leaves a lot to be desired. However this is getting close the the right size....for now
Catching some rays and waiting for spring...

Great work Mike. Its a nice tree that got even better.

Great progress and the work is well worth it. Well done and really cannot wait to see this another year on.

Top work mate,
Mo