Ideas Summit with Peter Adams

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Leonarda
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Re: Ideas Summit with Peter Adams (1)

Post by Leonarda »

Hi all, I typed up my conference notes from the Idea's Summit with Peter Adams... I know it has taken me awhile, but the incentive to win one of Penny's great "Limited Edition" pots, "made me do it"

Peter had a few great comments ... my favourite would have to be

if you hollow, you get shadow.
If you have shadow, you get mystery
If you have mystery, you get another dimension.


you may be able to marry some of the notes with Ken's photo's (eg Ray's NSW Bottle tree)
LT
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Bonsai Addict : bent and twisted
Leonarda
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Re: Ideas Summit with Peter Adams (2)

Post by Leonarda »

The School of Bonsai - 2009 Idea’s Summit
With Special International Guest - Peter Adams
Saturday 4th and Sunday 5th July 2009


Peter (PA): It has been almost 25 years, and here he is, back again. He met Kate many years ago, She got him to go back into fine art and gradually into bonsai. Started a nursery – which dampened the enthusiasm, then moved to America so sold up everything.

Teaching and travelling with Kate – had zero trees, and people started giving them trees. His current trees have been in possession for 8 years max. Lately now he has just started to collect mountain hemlock – there is no information or history for bonsai on this species so it is fun to collect. Mountains pines (not juniper).

Started working now with smaller trees – going into shohin. They are also more difficult to do and their small size means you can get more of them

Photo 1. in England, image – huge garden juniper. Removed 98% of green, left driftwood, started from ground up

Photo 2. this is a collected California juniper. In UV, it is more yellow, if you put in semi-shade you get more blue green colour in your tree.

3 Steps : Move tree around, Limit green removed, Consolidate
That way the tree does not know it has been styled.

Photo 3. and 4. Before and after shots
Photo 5. nursery stock
Photo 6. these trees are from “New Forest” which, in 1080, was part of King Williams Hunting Reserve. It is a Dwarf pine 100yr old garden tree.

Photo 7. Scots pine collected from swamp. 15ft high – now potted in same pot for 15years. It is known as “Number #7” in the bonsai community. Scots pine naturally become literati as they drop lower branches and stoop like an “old granny”

Photo 8. Collected olive tree – sketching and carved. Black wash for recesses. Wire brushed, then almost dry limestone on the ridges only – like sketching. Gives more natural look.

Photo 9. collected juniper 400-500 years old and is 20 inches high

Photo 10. collected Scots pine with multi trunk in polystyrene box .

PA: “Ray, I took your idea of putting your collected trees into a polystyrene box 25years ago back to England, and then to Spain and onto South Africa, so you should get credit for this.”

Photo 11. juniper with composite truck made up of 13 different bits of trees and held together with “GORILLA GLUE”. Once dried (24 hours) you can dremel it, you don’t need much, buy small bottle. Sticks rocks, everything. Air dries it out so keep lid clean and tight.

Photo 12. Quince in a fibreglass hand home made rock slab. Raft inside rock slab and red flowers. This is Kate’s tree, she has been doing bonsai for 30 years and is very experienced.

Water – plants love natural water which is iron and sulphur rich, and has no city additives (but would need to be filtered for drinking). Trees love natural water.

Photo. Cotoneaster – rock horizontalis 3 years in training.

Photo. crab apple – has a great trunk – fat. Had no branches and has been in training for 3 years.

Other images of trident maples, Japanese maples and others

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Leonarda
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Re: Ideas Summit with Peter Adams (3)

Post by Leonarda »

Gorilla Glue demonstration
======================
Glue-ing two rocks – pick a stick side, wire the rocks together to hold them in place, then glue it and tomorrow carve and paint it. It starts to set within 20 mins and is rather runny which is better for applying. Starting to bubble. This one dries creamy and bubbles up. Now comes in clear form. Moisten to get better application. Use any sharp tool and sanding paper once it has dried, to touch it up. Glues metal, glass, wood, wire, rock. Don’t get any on YOU !

He has used it on a green soft floppy full of water trident maple shoot which he snapped, and he put a tiny touch of glue and tree survived.

Animal wrap – used to bandage wounds in animals and comes in great colours. It is safe and flexible, it wraps around trunk and sticks to itself and not the limb. It is approx 15 cm wide so cut it to width required. It is flexible enough to use as grafting tape.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
next day...
Rock – returned to the rock that was gorilla glued yesterday. Removed the wire and peeled off the creamy resin, you can grind and sand it and make it blend with contour of stone.

PA: You can’t stay inside a little box, or copy. You must make your own footprints.
Leonarda
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Re: Ideas Summit with Peter Adams (4)

Post by Leonarda »

Discussion on trees.
=============

Tree 1. Crab-apple. Greg.
Crab-apple dug locally in Goulburn dead wood on deciduous trees
PA: what you’ve done is nice, old wood is not solid white. It’s obvious this is painted. Disguise it, change it with coffee grounds, or black water-colour paint to disguise it.
The main thing is the mechanical nature of white. The carving is pretty good, it needs a bit of finesse. On the outside where the scars are, the top is smooth and tissue is rough. My cutters get a natural resolve. And don’t overdo it. Less is more.
The shape is working very well. I like the shape and texture of pot. An old gnarly tree like this, it is nice to have a calmer pot, with less shine, and dappling in pot is terrific. If you wanted to, remove glaze with fine sand blaster. A flat colour would work better with this tree. Shape and position of tree is good.

Great shape in there, already making quick growth. Don’t give them too much nitrogen they don’t retain it and will be wasted. Use rose food, fish emulsion, seasol, or seaweed, which contains secondary hormone and is good for growth. Nitrogen grows leaves, and buds but fattens trunk too. So use seaweed. (He made a sketch and painted it).


Tree 2. Juniper. Ric Roberts.
Talked about pot. Specially made glazed, coloured. Tree in state of “not doing” - a mental attitude. It has wonderful natural feeling. Worked on this tree last time, 25 years ago.
Lovely tree. Great bones. Patina in trunk is fine. Don’t oil the pot. Go old feel. When styling tree, it has old frame. This top is too full for this age and trunk.
RR: this tree if you trim a lot, it goes back to juvenile foliage. Trimmed 3 months ago. But don’t want the spiky growth. PA: use seasol and nitrogen to give a tonic or put in a little shade to green up the leaf. If you let it grow 6 inches and cut back it will back shoot.


Tree 3. Japanese Hornbeam.
Extensive deadwood root base. Bought a few years ago. Used cheap epoxy a few times. Use penetrating epoxy to preserve the wood. And use a good one. Do it only once.
It makes a great sling shot. Look at it in terms of limit one and encouraging the other - inequality. Find the line and reduce.
Change of pot is needed. This pot too heavy and masculine for this dainty feminine tree. Look at roots. Lift it a bit, it has nice roots (after digging around in it) and smell the soil to check dampness.
This tree has impact of old collected apricot. For this tree – chop at end of growing season (when heat is highest) so approx March.


Tree 4. Juniper. Ian
This tree has some wire on it. (a joke referring to Ian working diligently on a juniper for long time at workshop the other day).
Very nice tree. Feeling of species there. Has been in a state of “not doing”. This can be a positive thing. Let the tree be. Recuperate and build up and grow in between. Often better to rest the tree between pinching – rather than bonsai all the time.
Ian: was in a pot. Not great health, cant find the back (or front)
PA: nice lines, nice form, drop height so that it now is wider. Essence of species.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Leonarda
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Re: Ideas Summit with Peter Adams (5)

Post by Leonarda »

Rays Play Things.

1. Fasciation
It all started with George asking about an azalea. I told him it was fasciated. IE flat trunked. This one has the smallest flowers of all the others. Garry gave me a plant where ½ normal size flowers and ½ small flowers. All summer and 9 months of year they bloom their heads off . Thousands of flowers. What causes it ? an insect, mutations, a herbicide. – no-one knows

2. Bubble Leaf Olive
I have not had time to create my own bubble leaf olive, but two of my students have. This one belongs to Jonas, and this one belongs to Silvana. Approx 7-8 years old. Silvana’s tree has been in training for 2 years. It was a cultivar I started in nursery 10 years ago, it has a very nice shiny leaf, which is curled. Propagate the bubble leaf in October from semi hard wood.

3. Dwarf Olive
A true dwarf, and as it gets older it gets a corky bark. This one is 8 years old but they only grow to 30 cm high

4. Saotome Azalea. (non flowering)
Got a tube of spagnum moss, then put cuttings so that the trunk is mass of roots now hardened.

5. Sweet potato vine.

6. QLD have a bottle tree, so searched for a bottle tree in NSW. Here it is…

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Leonarda
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Re: Ideas Summit with Peter Adams (6)

Post by Leonarda »

Peter Adams – styling
=======================

1. Cedar. Clinton.
History… from deceased estate, not worked on recently, has been worked on for years. Clinton did wiring… PA looked at it quickly 2 weeks ago when he got off the plane and did some rough sketches to look at styling.

This is an old tree so utilise everything the tree has to offer. Take away later. It will respond to your work maybe vigorously. Cedars need to build up and maintain their vigour. Don’t give them too much to do as they perish.

Showed a picture - do it gradually, don’t make it a bonsai. Bring down to bonsai level – but let it “grow” into a bonsai.

Lebanese cedar. He bent down the branch - use both hands to compress on branch to feel the tissue bending and concentrate on bending slowly and gradually
Just bending the branch, dropping the line. Old cedars produce weeping lines, cypress are more flatter.

Atlantic cedars are more interesting they are lovely noble and lofty
The habit of this cedar in the plain is, they are level, “Atlas ascends, Lebanon level, Deodar descends”

Convention or great myth of putting a little apex tree on top is extremely misleading.
Don’t have a tree where branches are all uniform in length and bring them unbalanced.

Do it gradually – don’t rush it – give it a vacation after its surgery, it will respond much better.

2. Shimpaku Juniper
==================
This one not as old as cedar, but quite pretty. Clinton has wired it.

The craft of wiring vs the art of bonsai

Nice lines, history - belongs to Ray, had it for 30 years from a cutting, was once a nice green compact. A lot of junipers currently are styled Kimura style. Don’t always follow fashion, let the tree decide.

Water shade and feed will make tree strong and responsive, don’t wire it all at once. Too much surgery. Once you have done stuff give it 2 month break it will be better to work with then. Folia feed will revive it, any branch that takes sick will most likely lose it, they rarely come back.
Using Japanese cutters on this tree. They will happily cut through wire.

If there are pointy bits, branches, lay them down, they then get pads of foliage.
Having got main direction. Look at details, in 3D, from side to side, and back to front
This type of juniper loves nitrogen and responds to it. It loves feeding. Use seasol. Seaweed which works and is good response. (Peter uses 20:20:20 )
I don’t make a front, the tree changes infinitely, finding and placing in a pot would give it a viewing side.


Question: how do we get the art of bonsai across to the community.
PA: “when you get the confidence to use your native trees without apologising for them.”



Almost an Aussie…
In 1912/13 my paternal grandfather came to Hobart on naval ship and he loved it there. Great Uncle Tom settled in Sydney, we were due to migrate when WWI broke out and Dad joined the army. Australia is very addictive.

3. Port Jackson Fig – “Monty”. Jane.
============================
I think it is a great little tree. It will be wonderful to see this as a little miniature of mature form. Has great trunk. It’s unorthodox and has great character and grooves in trunk. Bring down height and lines. And use all the character. PUNKY means you can put your finger into wood, fascinating holes in trees. When a branch breaks it leaves a tear drop and hollow.
Because fig is soft, it continually rots, so let it be, it will recuperate on its own, and harden and continually create mystery in its own carving.



if you hollow, you get shadow.
If you have shadow, you get mystery
If you have mystery, you get another dimension.


4. Saotome Azalea. Lee Wright
=========================
Been doing this tree from first year I did bonsai . Don’t worry about the twisted branch and platting.
Lovely lines. A bit like dough-nuts, let the tree grow. This is a great tree.

If you had to be critical, turn a touch clockwise to get different trunkline which is gorgeous. Keep middle part of tree higher. Put it in a lighter pot even though a thirsty tree Allow the donut shape clouds to extend a bit.


5. Ric Roberts.
===============
This is back again 25 years on. Beautiful tree that a decent training program wouldn’t fix ( a yank having a dig at an aussie )
RR : not an easy tree. Done lots of training to get movement in branches. Then last year trimmed down one group to emphasise the back, but nothing trimmed or twisted.
PA : nice combination of lines. If you turn it so it has a closeness in it. I think it just needs wiring, and any wiring. Nice old looking trunk, moving forward thin out underneath to give structure and geometry. Thin out and track them sideways.

RR there is a trunk crossing
PA but this is natural – it happens in the wild. Here you are echoing that feeling.


6. Japanese Maple.
================
If you look at it from this corner, it fills out and looks better. Just need to repot this. Matt finish and grey blue pot will complement the trunk and give it age. A shiny pot expresses youth, lighter (washed denim) understates the tree, lets tree stand out. An oval pot would work. A dirty yellow or white would work also.

7. Black Pine
==============
Nice design, nice pot. Need to nail down movement with more green up top. It has been thickened out. To stabilise and make more interesting bring down small branches. This tree is 1 yr away from nice small bonsai.


8. Azalea. Ken.
===============
Collected two years ago, part of stump, approx 35 yrs old. Has been a straight left hand branch. Cut it off. PA : cut it all off until you get nothing. This would be more valuable as a shohin - has a great trunk base, so make it a very compact plant. Would take 5 years. Shorter tree will accentuate the fat base. Its all in the attitude, all in the eye.
Out of flower looks great. In flower (big flowers) there is a fascination of small trees with big flowers.


9. Japanese Maple Forest
=====================
Came from estate, is root bound. Best part of maples is aged bark. It takes ages takes time. White bark and buff stripes indicates over 30 years old. Can’t accelerate bark aging.
This has been done by clip and grow. This is a great method if you have the time and energy because the branch is forced to change direction.

Did a drawing and is moving a few trees in pot to match design.

Friend has a 0:10:10 and great growth on his trees. Finger pinch large leaves to immediately miniaturise growth and dwarf it. Don’t rush with changes, gradually allow the tree to naturally grow into your design. Whoever did this, spent lots of time to get it like this (late Alan Croft – 35 yrs in bonsai) I envisage a dirty French mustard pot.

Remember reciprocal of root to branch so under pin, extend line of pot, under the branches ie. Don’t make your pot too small.
An oval pot depicted but a rectangle pot with rounded corners (same size) would also work. You need space for tree to expand.

Now let it grow and leaf cut it. Slowly building the details. Let it recover its been root bound and will go through a growth spurt and so need to keep in front.


10. Azalea - Gary
================
Had it 2 years. Bad condition now recovered. Flowered last spring and has two horns - what to do. PA: ugly you need to remove one. It has 2 very heavy shapes so remove one to make it dainty with flow and direction and tranquillity. At the moment it is very busy and it detracts.
Sculpture the Y shaped trunk to be curved and hollow it. Lessen it to make vertical impact. Hollowed you don’t lose decorative value and it will gain character (carving = shadows = mystery)

Move the tree direction line to the left and it is a bit high so bring down. Shorten top to give regrowth at bottom. Design and play – although large, big branches, they will still crank slowly down. A couple of turns every few hours over 3 days will bring it down.
Leonarda
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Re: Ideas Summit with Peter Adams (7)

Post by Leonarda »

Australian Natives
==============

Lee Wright
----------------
started bonsai at 60 - I found I had an affinity with natives
Melaleuca revolution gold has stunning summer spring foliage
All the trees are being trees at the moment just with regular watering.

“Riverview Nursery” Victoria Rd at Ermington - no care, out of fashion trees and we have plundered them.

These trees are wonderful for shooting back on old wood. These trees are so dry and starved, and surviving in packed soil.

I have some bar branching and will let it grow to thicken the trunk.

This tree responds very quickly, I had cut it back. I washed out the old soil and repotted in bonsai soil. In the past all these trees, from “Riverview” and different species recover wonderfully for me. They love water. This is a piece of paperbark that I pulled off a couple of days ago. This is wooden fruit box with nails and varnished for a stand.

In Australia, our trees are old - ancient. They are not fancy trees.

March 2007 leptospermum petersonii is fantastic for tip pruning and has wonderful scent. The tree shoots everywhere, where I live in inner west of Sydney suburbs. This tree should be able to hedge. I have found them in my street. Do you leave it now with the red tips or trim it now. When it was potted into this pot was fine, but now needs repotting.

Natives - matt pot suit old trees. Australian trees are old looking, ancient looking trees so go oval and matt finish, broken with soft finish

Steven of ausbonsai.com and I want to nursery down the street and for $10 purchased a 7 foot tree. This was healthy tree washed off soil. I use Koreshoff gravel, repotted but tree now went into hibernation – was not happy.

Melaleuca styphlioidies - prickly leaf paperbark. Now it reshooted and the leader in one month had wire marks. In 7 months has reshooted tremendously. If it gets wire marks, then the paper trunk, barks up and covers it.

This was a great 8 foot tree and very responsive. Loves water even in water tray needs water. I’ve wired branches and they set within one month. I air wire to give it curves and sweep because they tend to go up at the ends.

Melaleucas big girth, big branches.

They need to be in deeper pots because they love water. Even lilly pillys all summer they live in water trays.

While in water trays you need to stop moss growing up the trunk . you cant scrape off melaleuca because you damage the paper bark.
Sydney large leaf paperbark.
Baeckea and kunzea – profuse shooters, fun to work with. Had this one for 4 years from Riverview Nursery Ermington and was ant ridden, and very dry, it was slow for a year but responded very well. If it has long wood with no shoots until the ends, don’t touch it. They don’t shoot back.

Pat Kennedy makes perfect posts for natives.

Another thing about natives is the beautiful scent.
WA peppermint myrtle.
Zig zag branches you need to watch the new shoots that are green and back to back.
Trying out something different, needs a soft grey or green pot with tiny touches of pink to match branches.

There are so many varieties, so find the ones that “like your touch”

Feeding - when I repot I lace soil with native Osmocote. Monthly weak Charlie Carp and repot in spring and January

In a water tray the roots come out the bottom.
Callistemon you can train them to be really drought hardy. All natives will be like this. They love water but they’ll cope with drought. (hello ! this is Australia)

Q: Any special fertiliser ?
A: no I only use Charlie Carp and Osmocote in soil.
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Re: Ideas Summit with Peter Adams (8)

Post by Leonarda »

More on Natives

Dennis McDermott
-------------------------
I can only echo what Lee said

They are our trees. They told me I couldn’t – best challenge – I started with banksia’s and gums.

Nyngophras – gum - prune their roots or touch their roots and they’ll die. I first got it as a twig 30 years ago and has grown a bit. In a big black pot

They live 400-500 years – do 70% of growth in first 15 years. So a twig will grow to reasonable size very quickly, and they grow slowly next 400 years.

This one had nice style tree growing but it had a habit of falling over. And tyring to get out of the pot. Only one back branch survived. In the middle of summer it would jump out of its pot and sit in the sun.

Every 7 or 8 weeks they burst growth and if it rains they grow double. I would never grow a melaleuca without a water tray. Gums do need regular water but not a tray. It will burst every two months and the leaves on this will shrink in size.

The bark on this will peel slowly – not strip. Most people don’t like big gum trees here are some smaller trees repotted 48 years ago. Interesting leaves, natural size, you can do anything to tree at anytime, they don’t mind. Cut and grow works well, or cut it all off and start again. I haven’t had any of my trees drop any branches yet.

I have had to cut back this tree over and over to get taper.
Gum trees have bark that changes colour, this one, lemon when young and darkens as it ages.

This one made a mini – typical gum 10,000 buds per cm2 in bark !! sigh !!
Talking about water. Look at all the moss - it means it is getting plenty of water. The forestry has currently got a purple leaf gum. Also flowering gums of SA and WA.

Big tall gum trees in forest. Typically drop their branches to survive. Pick trees with lower branches.

Defoliation : I started many years ago. Pick off big leaves. December is resting period for gums in summer. In summer, remove leaves to stimulate budding. Don’t burn them (replicate bush fire) it is too dangerous.

Repot – in winter with other trees. In theory March to October. They don’t have seasonal change. They are faster cycles – more regular – like two monthly.

There is one tree. Dollar blue leaf variety, cant seem to get it going. I’ve purchased two, one for Ray and one for me. I’m gong to cut it right down water is so important for natives, even though we live in drought and low fertiliser, I would stand a banksia in water for 5 months of the year.

Gums keep water and food storage in base and under b ark. Food : use native food its safe. I use balanced, general all rounder food.

You really wont get classical standards for natives. They won’t adapt to the Japanese styles.

If you keep repotting every year, it will live as long as 500 years. All my trees go in the same bonsai mix. I use a basic start part 50% good quality potting mix ( not cheap stuff) and mix with 50% course river sand – never pebbles.
Leonarda
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Re: Ideas Summit with Peter Adams (9)

Post by Leonarda »

More on Natives

Ray Nesci
----------------
I tried a few natives, have still got another 20,000 to try. If I like one, I’ll stick to it and re-do but…

I do have a little gum tree. This is a clump style as gums have habit of branching. Doesn’t matter if another pops up. I changed this pot every few years. This is a scribbly gum - 28 years old.

That one is Leptospermum, they do very well, normally white flowers, but since we trim them continually we never get flowers only foliage. Coastal tea tree.

Melaleuca. Purple flowers shoots back a bit. So don’t trim them off.

The one I enjoy and grow a lot is Tristianoprus. Water Gum. My favourite. So I keep doing more and more - here is normal leaf size. So trim to reduce, bark peels off, picturesque and trim top to get red tips. This one has a “backside soe” It is approx 15 years old and has a front scar.

This is a root over rock water gum, in my size - 30cm tall

At the school. I talk a lot of students into doing the water gum. They make a great bonsai. But they are not exhibited in shows.

They don’t drink any more water than the average plant, and lastly a variegated colourful form. I might be able to propagate and sell. Doesn’t drop branches or leaves. Shoot back on old wood - even stump.

Q: when to root prune
A: best time early spring (Aug) or early autumn. Root prune. I do any time of year.

Q: when to defoliate
A: anytime. Take off the biggest leaf. You can defoliate but not necessary.

Q: how old is your plant.
A: this one is 20 years old but it maybe took 10 years so if you cut back this one watch them. Fast growers in 4-5 years, you’ll get a nice tree.

This is not a gum tree and does need too much water. But its called a water gum.

It is called a water gum because it is found on the embankment of creeks - not in the creek or water.

Q: What about Casuarina.
A: They like more water than gums, they will shoot back. I haven’t done one. Best time to repot is August or March.
Leonarda
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Re: Ideas Summit with Peter Adams (finally)

Post by Leonarda »

PA: You can’t stay inside a little box, or copy. You must make your own footprints.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

More Styling continued…

11. Olive
=========

Clinton wired it. You can show more root ball to give it lift and thick base. Old big olives not common but old hunky spreading olives are.
Olives are reasonably vigorous. Adapt very well and make great images.

I’m gnarling the shoots - put great bends in them since olives do this anyway. Old trees twist and turn so you do this with wire on younger branches.

Working on multiple trees allows your eye to wander and not get too bogged down on what your trying to achieve. If you move from one tree to another, and back, you can see what you focussed too much upon.

Remember to get a 3D balance over the top of branches – and create leaf formation
The regrowth will fill in some of these spaces, and fill in the tree very quickly.
This Olive was collected tree in poor soil. From Campbelltown - Mt Annan area


12. Japanese Black Pine
===================
This has exposed root, and in cascade style.

There appears to be a lot of confusion on how to make them bud
Folia feed tree when dormant – go back 2 months from budding
1. cut terminal of branches to trigger back shooting
2. cut off rising and descending needles
3. folia feed weekly for 8 weeks.

Overall effect is explosive energy and budding all around the branch ends. And lots more buds are usable so you can thin them out too.

Thin out buds to stop branch thickening all within a year. Every year for 3 years will give you complete fill in tree.

Don’t needles pluck more than 30% in one year. That’s why it takes 3 years. This is the finishing of the tree for exhibition.

If needles still too big, let candles extend and as buds push and needles come through wall, then pull them and leave sheath behind. If you pull out sheaf you don’t get further needles. So this irritates tree and re-buds with smaller needles. This only occurs in terminal area, not back branching.


Fashion trend has changed in Japan, the small trees are not currently trendy

Stop root scorch by watering soil before fertilising

In Japan they continually feed the trees and in ground trees so when they are transferred in pot, you need to continue the feeding programs. Organic feed, use different types.

He was growing bonsai quite happily for 20 years before getting his first book and discovering he’d been doing it wrong all along.

Then his plants went downhill – the books did not give precise instructions so he watched his white pine die in 14 days. After giving it an anchovy to eat.

In the 50’s seaweed in water showed great colour and small internodes on tree.

Whether black, white, or scots pine, you need to learn about each species. Scots pine “Jeremy” grows in Parkes NSW climate. Purchased in Canberra.

Put it in semi shade to get a deeper blue/green foliage.

THE END :)
Andrew Ward
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Re: Ideas Summit with Peter Adams

Post by Andrew Ward »

Wow Leonarda! Certainly a comprehensive set of notes covering the weekend. :o

Well done! My notes are still in hand written form in my note book. You have inspired me to do something with them ... however repotting has first priority at present! :D
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Re: Ideas Summit with Peter Adams

Post by kcpoole »

Awesome Girl :-)

For those that have not seen the photos I have of the weekend then you will find them on my own gallery as it is much easier too upload them there. ( al thought there are lots here)

http://www.poolez.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=6982

Enjoy
Ken
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