Tips on striking fig cuttings

[Paulneill]

Hi guys I am on my way back to Sydney today from ballina with a big bunch of 10 inch long tiger fig cuttings that I borrowed from a local tree . The cuttings were defoliated and wrapped in wet newspaper. And sealed in plastic bags. I will pot them up tonight .will the cuttings be ok potted into regular potting mix? Also should I re cut the ends so they have fresh cut bases for the roots to grow . Has anyone got any tips please. Is it the right time of year to take fig cuttings ? I am planning to graft the cutting together to make one solid trunk in the future . Thanks in advance for any tips

[emi93m]

Hi Paul

I have great success planting ficus - fig cuttings ( with no roots ) in a 80% sand " river sand " and 20% bonsai soil mix and a bit of gravel 7 to 10mm at the bottom of the pot helps with drainage. I dont think its to late for your cuttings to strike by March just when you get home cut the bottoms of fresh again and keep them in semi shade. Good luck

Regards
Mick

[shibui]

I'm striking rubiginosa cutting now in victoria. Roots in 3-4 weeks. Only need to cut the bases if you are using a rooting compound - fresh cut base lets it penetrate better.
Figs might strike in potting mix but a propagating mix would be better - sterilised and correct moisture/air ratio for striking cuttings.
If you don't have auto misting cover the pots of cuttings with a plastic bag or cut off plastic bottle to keep the humidity high while they produce roots. Lots of light promotes rooting but direct sun will cook the cuttings.
Good luck.

[Paulneill]

thanks guys . i have potted the cuttings up and i hope to get most of them to strike , i have access to another tiger fig tree near where i live. i am going to take a heap of cuttings from . i was wondering what people think about how many leaves should be left on the cuttings if any ?

[Bougy Fan]

I leave the smallest leaf on the cutting and cut the rest off. Be careful if you are using a humidity tent that you don't get a hot spell and cook the cuttings.

Tony

[shibui]

Some leaf should be left on cuttings (except deciduous hardwood cuttings in winter). The leaves make food and the cutting will strike quicker and better with more leaves on and more light, but its a balancing act between leaf area, moisture and humidity and light. Cuttings with too much leaf and humidity not high enough will dehydrate before they can put out roots.

How much leaf depends on the size of the cuttings and the conditions you have to strike them and will be different for each person. The usual guideline is leave about 1/3 of the leaves on the cutting.

Species with small leaves I usually strip the lower 2/3 to leave about 1/3 of the leaves.
Species with medium leaves I try to keep the last 3 leaves (which will be about 1/3 of the leaves).
Species with larger leaves I leave 1 or 2 leaves, or cut each of the last 3 leaves in half to reduce leaf area. Cutting leaves with the scissors doesn't worry the cuttings. Tony's practice of leaving just one leaf obviously works for him too. Shows there's a range of possible techniques.