Tips for developing bunjin juniper from scratch?

[Mickeyjaytee]

Hey all.

Thought I’d put this out there. How to best develop a tree from scratch for a bunjin style bonsai? I’d say bunjin is definitely my favourite style of juniper and got to thinking whether the same rules apply for growing from cutting to refinement stage.

Generally I’d follow the rules of sacrifice branch, potting up, heavy fertilising, removal of old foliage every year etc. bunjin, I’m not so sure…

Typically, correct me if I’m wrong, a bunjin follows the rules of a thinner trunk, with heavy emphasis on twists, bends and especially the shari.

My question is, are sacrifice branches used to help thicken the trunk or, do bonsai artists use a strong growing main shoot (aiming for height), adding in additional twists, bends every year etc. while minimising branches lower on the plant?

I ask this as I usually don’t see many bunjin with Jin’s or noticeable branch removal lower (that I can see from the front at least) and am curious if they are developed differently to other styles.

Is it possible that trunk development (width in this case) also comes from shari work each year causing swelling from the scar tissue instead?

I hope that makes sense! A little brain dead today

Thanks for any help!

[treeman]

Thing to remember is that you don't ''build up'' a literati as much as build it down. Meaning, you find material with good potential and slowly remove the lower branches over the years. There should not be to many exaggerated bends. Also, you can make twin or triple trunked literati trees as well as single. The longer you take to make it, the better it will be. Don't just attempt one, try 10 and you will find one or two that you like amongst them eventually.

[Mickeyjaytee]

Thing to remember is that you don't ''build up'' a literati as much as build it down. Meaning, you find material with good potential and slowly remove the lower branches over the years. There should not be to many exaggerated bends. Also, you can make twin or triple trunked literati trees as well as single. The longer you take to make it, the better it will be. Don't just attempt one, try 10 and you will find one or two that you like amongst them eventually.

Thanks treeman, I appreciate it. I get what you mean. I’m probably running out of space for 10 but hey, I’ll try

So if I did find something with good potential, how do I tackle the sacrifice branch if there is one? I guess incorporating it into the shari would be an option some people take. I just wasn’t sure on the process and if it even had a different process in development to say a formal upright etc.

Thanks for the reply mate

[treeman]

So if I did find something with good potential, how do I tackle the sacrifice branch if there is one? I guess incorporating it into the shari would be an option some people take.

Yes. https://au.pinterest.com/pin/360921357608853598/

[shibui]

Literati typically have a slender trunk so there's no need for sacrifice branches to thicken the trunk. You will probably remove or convert excess branches to dead wood but I don't see that as sacrifice branch the way we use them to thicken trunks for other styles.

Note that literati looks easy. It's not until you try to develop literati that you'll discover just how difficult it is to get realistic bends and branches while still keeping to the minimalist requirements of the style.

[Mickeyjaytee]

So if I did find something with good potential, how do I tackle the sacrifice branch if there is one? I guess incorporating it into the shari would be an option some people take.

Yes. https://au.pinterest.com/pin/360921357608853598/

Beautiful tree. Thanks for sharing treeman

Literati typically have a slender trunk so there's no need for sacrifice branches to thicken the trunk. You will probably remove or convert excess branches to dead wood but I don't see that as sacrifice branch the way we use them to thicken trunks for other styles.

Note that literati looks easy. It's not until you try to develop literati that you'll discover just how difficult it is to get realistic bends and branches while still keeping to the minimalist requirements of the style.

Cheers for the reply Neil. That realistic trunk is a sure challenge. I struggle with just regular styled bonsai. I’m more than keen to give it a try however. I’ll go easy on the design and hopefully have some luck. Thanks for clarifying the sacrifice branch situation.

Just a quick question in regard to Shari work. Is it best to do a little each year to extend the Shari as the tree grows or perhaps every second year to allow some recovery time? I’m going to assume Shari work would slow the tree down quite a bit especially during the development stage.

I saw a video which had a very small Shari line created when intially planting and wiring a young whip. Curious if this is a common practice amongst growers developing shimps specifically for bunjin.

Looking forward to trying at least. Just some trees I see online are phenomenal. By far my favourite style

[shibui]

Gradually increasing a shari is not because of stress on the tree or for recovery time. Shari does not 'slow development'. Development is directly related to how much foliage is on the trunk, rather than dead wood.
Increasing shari over years allows the trunk to add more layers of wood around the original dead section so when you increase the shari you get different layers of wood exposed and the shari looks more natural than a single flat layer when we go all the way in one go.
If you are really clever with carving you may be able to carve some layers into flat dead wood. That's much quicker than waiting years between widening shari.

If you are starting out and developing the trunk I would encourage the gradual shari method because I think the layered wood looks great. Don't try starting shari on very thin trunk. You can easily kill a thin trunk trying to remove thin strip of bark. I'd only be starting shari on pencil thick and more trunk.
If your trunk is already sufficiently thick then you'll have to go all the way and use alternative carving to develop dead wood character.

[Mickeyjaytee]

Gradually increasing a shari is not because of stress on the tree or for recovery time. Shari does not 'slow development'. Development is directly related to how much foliage is on the trunk, rather than dead wood.
Increasing shari over years allows the trunk to add more layers of wood around the original dead section so when you increase the shari you get different layers of wood exposed and the shari looks more natural than a single flat layer when we go all the way in one go.
If you are really clever with carving you may be able to carve some layers into flat dead wood. That's much quicker than waiting years between widening shari.

If you are starting out and developing the trunk I would encourage the gradual shari method because I think the layered wood looks great. Don't try starting shari on very thin trunk. You can easily kill a thin trunk trying to remove thin strip of bark. I'd only be starting shari on pencil thick and more trunk.
If your trunk is already sufficiently thick then you'll have to go all the way and use alternative carving to develop dead wood character.

As always, thanks for the input Neil. Just trying to get my head around this. So what I should do is start the Shari when the tree is young and extend it every year as opposed to just carving a full Shari off the bat? Make sure the tree is at least pencil thickness before even attempting.

My plan was to get a good, longer cutting I’ve had for a couple of years and slice in a Shari from as high as possible (realising I can’t hit any of the new green growth), extend it down to the base, then wire with initial twists/bends and plant. I can’t remember where I saw this method but, I most certainly saw it.

Anyway, I’d like to get it as right as possible! I definitely need to research into Shari significantly. We have a tonne of books at the club so next meet I’ll pour over them and ask around also.

Thanks again for your help mate, I value it greatly

[treeman]

. By far my favourite style

Mine too. Here are a couple of natural literati junipers. The variations are endless...

natbon4.JPG

natbon3.JPG

[shibui]

As always, thanks for the input Neil. Just trying to get my head around this. So what I should do is start the Shari when the tree is young and extend it every year as opposed to just carving a full Shari off the bat? Make sure the tree is at least pencil thickness before even attempting.

Shari can be developed either slowly or in 1 go but I find that the slow, extend each year, method gives much better final shari with layers in the dead wood.

My plan was to get a good, longer cutting I’ve had for a couple of years and slice in a Shari from as high as possible (realising I can’t hit any of the new green growth), extend it down to the base, then wire with initial twists/bends and plant. I can’t remember where I saw this method but, I most certainly saw it.

I haven't done it this way but sounds like it will work well. It's likely you will find that you can get sweeping bends in a trunk this age but I suspect you'll find it difficult to get any really abrupt or tight bends.
I find the best tight bends are produced when the trunk is pruned and replaced by a branch.

Anyway, I’d like to get it as right as possible! I definitely need to research into Shari significantly. We have a tonne of books at the club so next meet I’ll pour over them and ask around also.

Don't be fooled into thinking there's just one 'right way' to create a great bonsai. In most cases you can achieve great results using different methods.

[Mickeyjaytee]

. By far my favourite style

Mine too. Here are a couple of natural literati junipers. The variations are endless...
natbon4.JPG
natbon3.JPG

Beautiful trees mate. Thanks for sharing.

I find the best tight bends are produced when the trunk is pruned and replaced by a branch.

Hey Neil so in regard to this, would you use a cut and grow method and/or grafting? I’ve always considered cut and grow for my junipers yet, I don’t think I’ve seen anyone do it. It does make sense though. I guess it would slow down the development stage so perhaps that’s why you don’t see it much on social media etc.

I’m interested in experimenting with a with of my trees.

Cheers mate!

[Mickeyjaytee]

Mine too. Here are a couple of natural literati junipers. The variations are endless...
natbon4.JPG
natbon3.JPG

Beautiful trees mate. Thanks for sharing. Feel free to post more if you have them!

I find the best tight bends are produced when the trunk is pruned and replaced by a branch.

Hey Neil so in regard to this, would you use a cut and grow method and/or grafting? I’ve always considered cut and grow for my junipers yet, I don’t think I’ve seen anyone do it. It does make sense though. I guess it would slow down the development stage so perhaps that’s why you don’t see it much on social media etc.

I’m interested in experimenting with a with of my trees.

Cheers mate!

[Albo]

For me a great advantage for this sort of style is you can pick up really cheap material to work with. I picked up this Aleppo pine for about $15. Most people don’t want this sort of material.
You can get real creative and take risks with wiring as if you break a branch who cares, it cost practically nothing.
Before photo from over a year ago and where it’s at now. It still has a long way to go but I’ve basically just bent it over in half and put some movement into the branches.
It could be nice in a few years.

[Promethius]

My plan was to get a good, longer cutting I’ve had for a couple of years and slice in a Shari from as high as possible (realising I can’t hit any of the new green growth), extend it down to the base, then wire with initial twists/bends and plant. I can’t remember where I saw this method but, I most certainly saw it.

Another argument for doing things gradually: more time for the live vein to adapt / reroute. Too big too fast and you might inadvertently lose branches you meant to retain.