AusBonsai

Quick update for now.

The two shishigashira airlayers have dropped all their leaves, so i decided to clean out as much of the sphagnum moss as possible, while cutting as few roots as possible.

This worked for the single trunk tree, but not for the twin trunk. The twin trunk still has all its roots on one side, and is very unstable as a result. I have cut a few of them back to make it easier to get the sphagnum out as well as hopefully induce new roots on the other side of the trunk come spring.

The single trunk on the other hand, in just one year, has grown a phenomenal set of radial roots that will be a very nice root-base in time. They appear quite healthy, and should only improve with the vast majority of the sphagnum no longer retaining water

I will keep air layering more from my mother stock tree this Spring to create a shishigashra group planting, and i will keep in mind what i learned here, and air layer single trunks only.

I've been going through my air layers and getting rid of the sphagnum now as it holds too much moisture.

Here's an update on the A. Palmatum 'Kamagata' that i posted a photo of earlier in the thread. Really good, spreading, roots on this one. One of my Arakawa air layers had decent roots, the other had one tiny little root, so i discarded the latter. It was only an experimental one for seeing how the tree reacts, so i don't feel too bad. I will look at doing a thicker trunk of 'Arakawa' this Spring as they are starting to get the first stages of bark forming.

My Mikawa Yatsubusa layers all have pretty rubbish roots for now, so some years in encouraging roots to grow, or grafting roots, will be in order.

That looks like a good choice for a layer Tim . Plenty of low branches so you can choose to grow a Japanese maple style or, if you want a single trunk those low branches will add thickness and can be cut off when they have done the job.
Far too many layered straight trunks with no taper If you are going to go to the trouble of making layers they should at least have reasonable potential.

Thanks Neil,

It is one of those things that is so obvious looking back; that taking a thin, straight trunk doesn't really do much for your long term plans, even if it eaiser to 'see' the future tree with that material. Even though that Kamagata layer is only the thickness of a pencil, at least with so much branching down low i can get the taper into the base, and then give myself options down the track too with what it becomes. I'm finally coming to grips with what is worth layering, and what is worth cutting off and throwing in the bin.

Sadly with the nature of Shishigashira, that is the habit that they grow in-> lots of thin and straight trunks. So i'm a little constricted by what i can layer off my mother stock tree for now; until i can get them off and start shaping the next round of better layers off it. I am loathed to just cut off the growth of an uncommon cultivar like that, so it will be lots of thin and straight trunks i can put into a group planting for now, then later i will have better options to take from it.

TimS wrote: ↑January 2nd, 2019, 6:17 am
Re: Deciduous Air Layerings class of 2018
Unread post by matty-j » January 1st, 2019, 9:46 pm

Great post Tim, very informative!

Have you ever done a layer on something 100mm thick? There is a maple in my mums front yard that is begging to have a branch taken off

Cheers
Matt

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Thanks Matt,

Can’t say i’ve attempted a layering that big myself but I know others have on Japanese Maple with success. You’ll need a large bag and a hell of a lot of sphagnum moss! It would be best to wait until the end of spring this year before starting it IMO and it might need to be left on the tree for 2 years to get enough root growth to support such a large trunk after separation, but it would certainly be possible

Just need clarification if a branch / trunk is 10cm in diameter the air layer will need to be left on for a couple years?

I have only done a handful of airlayers and the largest roughly around 8cm diameter
set in late August 2018 and separated from parent tree early February 2019 which is roughly just under 6 months
Species Corky Bark Elm
I did use wire underneath the cut but not sure if benefit from it
Rooting hormone and whatever was left in my rooting powder sachet
Roots only struck on one side, which also had a very low branch
Currently sitting in orchiata, scoria, zeolite mix

I have another Japanese Maple and Chinese Elm I was considering to air layer but they are roughly 10cm diameter
from what i've read, apply the layer in late Spring and leave for 2 seasons, possibly check it after the 1st season?

thanks for all the info TimS
appreciate all your efforts

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It't hard to give a definite answer i'm sorry. I've not attempted it myself, but in terms of having sufficient root growth to support the tree after separating it from the parent plant i would err on the side of caution of leaving it if it didn't seem like a good strong root ball.

In my thinner ones i have seen that some layers can very quickly explode roots in response, while others will just sit there, or put a single root out. Each layer is different, even on the same tree.

I would just monitor it, and once you see a good mass of roots having formed, whether one year or two, consider it time to separate. It's not worth risking the layer for haste to separate it early. A few of mine died after separation for this reason.

Good luck and please report your experience!